TABLE OF CONTENTS

Volume 2, Issue 2, Spring 2002 "This Century's New Textile Products"
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Russell E. King*, Leigh Ann C. Brain *, Kristin A. Thoney **

*Department of Industrial Engineering
** Department of Textile and Apparel, Technology and Management
North Carolina State University

In this paper, a process control-based inventory control methodology is developed for a yarn spinning plant. The technique attempts to control the inventory at a specified level using separate proportional/derivative control equations for each product (yarn) type. The system is unique in that the controlling variable (number of spinning frames producing a yarn type) is discrete while the output of the control equation is continuous. Additionally, each controller is contending for a common set of resources (spinning frames). The approach is compared with a traditional min/max system via computer simulation for the case of uncorrelated demand.

This research was supported, in part, by the
National Textile Center through the U.S. Department of Commerce.

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Russell E. King *, Leigh Ann C. Brain *, Kristin A. Thoney **
*Department of Industrial Engineering
**Department of Textile and Apparel, Technology and Management
North Carolina State University

In the first paper, a novel application of process control was developed for controlling inventory in a yarn spinning plant. This technique, proportional/derivative control, was compared to a traditional min/max system via computer simulation for situations in which demand is uncorrelated. In this second paper, the performance of both techniques is compared in situations in which the demand from period to period exhibits correlation. In addition, demand seasonality is also considered. The proposed methodology is shown to provide superior control allowing lower levels of inventory with fewer frame changeovers to achieve the same levels of shipping performance. It also is able to quickly adjust inventories to track changes in demand.

This research was supported, in part, by the
National Textile Center through the U.S. Department of Commerce.

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WORKLOADS AND STANDARD TIME NORMS IN GARMENT ENGINEERING

Zvonko Dragcevic*, Daniela Zavec**, Dubravko Rogale*, Jelka Geršak**
*Department of Clothing Technology, Faculty of Textile Technology, University of Zagreb, Croatia **Textile and Garment Manufacture Institute, Faculty of Mechanical Engineering, University of Maribor, Slovenia

Possibilities of new methods for measuring loading and standard time norms are presented, as applied in the field of garment engineering. Measurements described are performed on modern measuring equipment designed to measure and perform computer analysis of temporal values of processing parameters in sewing operation and simultaneously record in two planes using a video system. The measuring system described was used to investigate sewing operation for the front seam on a ladies' fashion suit, 52 cm long. For the operation investigated, method of work employing the MTM (Methods Time Measurement) system with analysis of basic movements was selected. The MTM system used shows that normal time for the operation in question is around 429.3 TMU (15.5 s). Investigations of workload imposed on the worker according to the OADM method were done simultaneously, and total ergonomic loading coefficient of Ker=0.082 was established, thus determining the time necessary to organise the process of work as 464.5 TMU (16.7 s). Simultaneous measurements of time and dynamic changes of processing parameters, as well as logical sets of movements, are important for defining favourable operation structures, time norms, ergonomically designed systems of work and workplaces in garment engineering, as early as in the phase of designing operations. The investigations described make possible to find optimal distribution of working elements and zones of reach important for ergonomic designing and/or re-designing of workplaces, which results in considerably reduced level of fatigue in work, optimal quality level, higher degree of utilisation of equipment installed and lower manufacturing costs.

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SURGICAL GOWN REQUIREMENTS CAPTURE:
A Design Analysis Case Study

Traci May-Plumlee and Amanda Pittman
Department of Textile and Apparel, Technology and Management
North Carolina State University

Design is a process best undertaken through an organized effort and a problem solving approach. Understanding the complex set of requirements that must be addressed by a successful new product, be they end user, legal, financial or other requirements, demands extensive research. Design analysis is a major thrust of the research. This paper presents a method for the existing product design analysis component of the functional design process utilizing a case study of surgical gowns.

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B. Xu, Y. Huang, W. Yu and T. Chen
Department of Human Ecology
The University of Texas at Austin

Mass customization is a new manufacturing trend in which mass-market products (e.g. apparel) are quickly modified one at a time based on customers' needs. It is an effective competing strategy for maximizing customers' satisfaction and minimizing inventory costs. An automatic body measurement system is essential for apparel mass customization. This paper introduces the development of a body-scanning system, and body size extraction methods and body modeling algorithms. The scanning system utilizes the multi-line triangulation technique to rapidly acquire the surface data of a body, and provides accurate body measurements, many of which are not measurable with conventional methods. Cubic B-spline curves are used to connect and smooth body curves. From the scanned data, a body form can be constructed using linear Coons surfaces. The body form can be used as a digital model of the body for 3D garment design and for virtual try-on of a designed garment. This body scanning system and its application software enable apparel manufacturers to provide custom design services to the consumers seeking personal-fit garments.

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William Oxenham
College of Textiles, North Carolina State University

While developments in yarn manufacturing continue to be promoted by machinery makers, spinners are challenged to produce the best quality yarn at an acceptable price. This often results in a compromise, since improved yarn quality can usually only be achieved at a higher processing cost (including raw material selection). An additional difficulty is that the significance of the various attributes of quality change for different yarn's end uses. While the solution to lowering yarn costs, that has been adopted in recent years has been to create large, almost fully automated spinning mills, this philosophy is presently being questioned, since this significantly reduces flexibility with respect to the fiber and yarn type that can be processed. This is obviously at odds with the current paradigm of customer driven, quick response manufacturing, since this demands inherent flexibility in the successful supplier. This paper reviews the current state of technological innovation in yarn production and examines the relative merits and disadvantages of each system. Some insight will also be given concerning those factors that limit further development of some of these systems. Historical trends in US yarn production have also been surveyed, and the combined information obtained is used as an indicator of the future directions in this key industry.

* Plenary Paper presented to The Textile Institute 82nd World Conference, Cairo (Egypt), 2002

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IMPROVED PERFORMANCE THROUGH FUNCTIONAL FINISHES

Michele L. Wallace and William A. Rearick
Cotton Incorporated, Cary, NC

Recent commercial developments in functional finishes for cotton are discussed. Moisture management, comfort and odor are highlighted as areas of interest to the
consumer, and some available products are mentioned. Results from a study of antimicrobial finishes on cotton knit fabric are given. None of the products remained
effective against the chosen Gram-negative bacteria after limited number of home laundering cycles (HLTDs). However, all the treatments appeared to kill the
Gram-positive bacteria after ten HLTDs. Further study is needed to identify a topical antimicrobial treatment that continues to work well after twenty-five HLTDs.

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INTERACTIVE ELECTRONIC TEXTILE DEVELOPMENT:
A Review of Technologies

Dina Meoli and Traci May-Plumlee
Department of Textile and Apparel, Technology and Management
North Carolina State University

Electronics may soon be integrated into textiles in our near environment. These "Interactive Electronic Textiles" (IETs) will benefit many traditional textile applications. Firms that understand how to incorporate emerging IET technologies into their new product strategies will establish and sustain financial and competitive advantages. Currently, product development practitioners and academic researchers are investigating multiple technologies for their potential in IET development. This research explored the emerging area of IETs by examining the potential supporting technologies including their strengths and limitations.

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Today's medical textile market is producing state of the art polymeric textile implantable devices that are redefining traditional materials and methods of surgery. These sophisticated high-tech polymer materials are engineered for specific uses in surgical and interventional procedures. One of the new biotextile products is an absorbable bi-directional barbed surgical suture that does not require surgical knots for wound closure. This novel idea has the attention of many physicians and surgeons where wound closure or tissue approximation is needed. The barbed suture has the potential to change the way wound closure is perceived in various clinical fields of surgery and veterinary medicine.

This research funded by NCSU College of Textiles, Textile and Apparel Technology and Management.

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THE USE OF E-COMMERCE IN THE TEXTILE AND APPAREL SUPPLY CHAIN

Lucy Daly
Professor Margaret Bruce
Department of Textiles, UMIST

Diverse e-commerce applications are being implemented in the textile and apparel supply chain. This paper includes case studies of small global companies' use of e-commerce, with analyses of the use and impact of e-commerce. Benefits of e-commerce include global marketing opportunities for products and markets. However, a key limitation of e-commerce is the risk of channel conflict between existing customers and new profile customers. With the continued globalization emphasis of the textile and apparel supply chain, analyses and creative implementation of e-commerce applications may offer unique product and market opportunities

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