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The IMB Exhibition
by Trevor J. Little
The IMB exhibition is held in Cologne, Germany, once every three years and is regarded as a technology intensive view of the advances being made throughout the world to improve apparel design, development, manufacturing, and management systems The 2003 IMB exhibition lived up to its reputation as a technology venue and offered the attendee many opportunities to glimpse the next generation apparel manufacturing. This review presents a selection of technologies that appear to be at the forefront of a technology era that merit further investigation as they may yield a significant enhancement in the sewn products industry. I have presented the information as a series of highlights but have also provided the reader the internet addresses for the companies referenced so that you can further explore areas that are of interest.
Body Scanning
Body scanning systems were exhibited by Telmat Industrie and Human Solutions
GmbH. The Telmat body scanner has the advantage of being able to capture
the anthropometrical data at very high speed according the Jean-Loup
Rennesson, Marketing Manager for Telmat. He indicated that recent studies
had shown
the body shapes change rapidly and have a natural frequency of approximately
2 Hz and it is therefore important to be able to scan a subject quickly
to have data that is insensitive to body movements. The Telmat Symcad
software suite includes data exploitation tools enabling the development
of 3-D morphological databases, deciding body data classifications and
determining optimized garment size charts. The SYMCAD 3-D scanner has
been used in the framework of several measurement surveys both in Spain
(5,500 people in 2001) and Greece (8,000 in 2000). Telmat continue to
promote the use of SYMCAD Body Card that is use to record the customer’s
measurements. Stores will soon be equipped with Telmat MorphoShop software
which calculates the best fitting size for any garment in the database
or directly transmits to the factory the pattern alterations needed
to obtain a made-to-measure garment.(www.symcad.com)
Human Solutions GmbH, (formerly TechMath ) introduced RETAILOR for the
first time. RETAILOR is new software to simplify the sale of customized
apparel and combines body scanning, computer-supported product selection,
integrated manufacture and order delivery. The retailer records up to
75 different body measurements of the customer and the customer and sales
person configure the required garment from the fabrics available before
sending the order to the manufacturer via the RETAILOR portal. U-man Solutions
have installed this system in 50 branches of Karstadt and C&A chain
stores. Human Solutions also introduced Virtual Mirror where the body scan
of the customer is clothed so that the customer can see the results from
all angles on a life size Virtual Mirror. This permits changes to be made
to the fit, accessories, colors, etc. before finalizing the purchase or
order. (www.human-solutions.com) One outcome of body scanning is Formax,
a series of mannequins with shapes matching those of real anatomies. Formax
is available from CAD Modelling t.m. S.r.l. and the company has recently
introduced a series of mannequins for teenagers with anatomically correct
head shapes. CAD Modelling has also introduced Scanfit, a system where
the customer can enter anthropometric data and get an identification of
the body conformation. (www.cadmodelling.it)
Clearly, there are significant advances in being able to have a digital
representation of the customer that can be used to have a “virtual
try-on”. C-me from Browzwear was demonstrated by Investronica where
the avatar can be designed according to anthropometric measurements. Following
the correct anatomical shape, clothing can then be placed on the avatar
to review the selection. (www.browzwear.com )
Advances in CAD
Easy Garment was shown by Investronica and is a new product to create new
pattern starting from a sketch. (www.investronica-sis.es)
Easy Garment allows the designer to automatically generate 2D patterns
by first choosing a sketch and then choosing all the options that complete
the garment such as: collars, pockets, sleeves, etc. When the designer
has decided the garment definition the measurement table is completed in
order to define the garment fit and grading.
VStitcher, a product of Browzwear shown by Investronica and Gerber Technology,
lets the designer view the design ideas realistically in 3-D and the collection
can be displayed on any number of lifelike models. The designer can produce
more digital samples for review and evaluation prior to the creation of
garments and prototypes. VStitcher is claimed to cut costs and shorten
the design cycle time through powerful, true-to-life 3-D Garment design,
fitting and merchandising.
VStitcher has the capability to simulate texture,
draping and fit of garments by displaying them on a realistic virtual
human body based on
your pattern, fabric and texture data. 3-D Fashion Builder from Browzwear
and shown by Investronica and Gerber Technology, is a 3-D digital mannequin
which allows the designer to design
garments in 3-D. Once the 3-D design is completed on the electronic mannequin,
it is automatically converted into 2-D patterns for cutting and sewing
of a prototype. 3-D Fashion Builder ap-pears to represent a significant
advance in product design and development. Patterns generated by 3-D Fashion
Builder can be displayed and textured on VStitcher for fit and merchandising
review and evaluation. “This alliance represents the first milestone
in the relationship between Gerber and Browzwear,” said James Arthurs,
President of Gerber Technology. “We look forward to continuing ongoing
technical collaboration as we promote the advanced 3-D capabilities of
the Browzwear product through our organization.”(www.browzwear.com )
Optitex promoted the use of fabric mechanical properties to change the
drape of the garments on a 3-D avatar. This work is ongoing according to
Sagi Shani of Optitex to create a fabric database that could assist in
refining the drape and patterns for different fabrics. (www.optitex.com) Gerber
Technology introduced an entire new version of its well known AccuMark
software Version8 to improve the flexibility and functionality of the CAD
for pattern creation, grading and marking. In addition, Gerber demonstrated
upgrades to many additional products in their portfolio.
Gerber Technology unveiled WebPDM™ V4, the latest release of its
apparel product lifecycle management (PLM) software solution. The release
includes
expansion of browser client capabilities that enables remote users and partners
to view and modify product specifications. WebPDMV4 has been evaluated and
developed in conjunction with major retailers. WebPDM brings together all product-related
data into one central place and enables up-to-the-minute product data to be
shared and modified in real time via a web browser.
Gerber now offers Vision Fashion Studio, a leading conceptual design software
system from NedGraphics, Inc., as part of its GERBER-suite line of CAD/CAM
solutions. Vision Fashion Studio provides significant enhancements over Artworks
Studio, the company’s former conceptual design product.
Vision Fashion Studio contains four modules: Color Reduction and Cleaning,
for digitalizing and cleaning designs; Design and Repeat, for repeat mode setting;
Easy Coloring, for the creation of colorways; and Storyboard and Cataloguing,
for the realistic presentation of collections as well as product catalogs and
storyboards. Easy Weave and Easy Knit are available as additional plug-ins
for users who require advanced textile design functionality. Gerber will continue
to offer a draping product, for lifelike, three-dimensional draping of textures
and colors on photographs and sketches.
Gerber introduced NESTER-server® V6 with expanded functionality to include
automatic nesting of both sectional and tubular markers, the ability to nest
block-fuse parts and construct/bump line nesting. It is fully compatible with
the company’s new AccuMark™ V8 pattern design, grading and marker
making software.
NESTER-server software is designed to generate automatic markers quickly and
efficiently. It contains two methods of auto-marking – draft and full
mode. Users enlist the draft mode for first or preproduction markers where
speed is the primary concern and the full mode for production marker making
where utilization is key. Full mode instructs NESTER-server, based on a time
limit defined by the user, to make multiple tries and select the best resulting
markers. Since processing of markers occurs in the background, NESTER-server
can operate 24 hours/day, freeing work staff to concentrate on more specialized
tasks. (www.nestersoftware.com )
Gerber Technology demonstrated new options in its broad range of automated
cutting and spreading systems, including the new GERBERinkjet™ part identification
system, InVision™ plaid/stripe matching system and, the InfoMark™ labeling
system mounted on the GERBER spreader.
The new GERBERinkjet part identification system prints detailed alphanumeric
text and barcodes directly on material during the cutting process at speeds
of up to 28 cm. (11 inches) per second. The system, mounted on the cutting
beam, dramatically increases throughput, reduces cut/label process time, accelerates
the assembly process and provides traceability for quality control purposes.
It is available as an option on new and existing DCS 2500 and DCS 3500 single-ply
GERBER cutters.
GERBERnet™, the company’s new customer service portal which provides
Internet-based tools to improve productivity, includes software updates, online
parts ordering, technical information and previously-owned equipment on auction.
Access to GERBERnet is provided via http://www.gerbertechnology.com
Daniel Harari, CEO of Lectra Systems stated that 59% of their revenue was from
Apparel, Textiles and Retailing, 23% form Automotive, Aerospace, Marine and
Industrial, 12 % from Home furnishing and 6% from footwear, Luggage and leather
goods. This is an interesting view of the emphasis being placed on CAD in the
different industry sectors. Lectra with 1350 employees in 100 countries is
focusing on globalization, global competition, globally dispersed operations
and developing secure communications throughout the supply chain. Lectra’s
goal is to go with the customer all over the world according to Harari. New
additions to the Lectra suite of CAD products include Color Management and
Communication as a strategic partnership with Datacolor, Mass Customization
with 3D body measurement as a strategic partnership with Human Solutions, Electronic
Catalogs and Visual Merchandising, Textile Digital Printing as a strategic
partnership with Stork, and advances in Leather Cutting. Leather cutting has
been installed by Lazyboy, and LVMH according to Harari. The new Gallery (Version
2.2) has been installed by leading retailers including Sears, and MS (in France).
Gallery is a high performance product data management system to assist in the
reduction of the product development time. Lectra’s challenges in the
near term are to expand its leadership position in China, develop a stronger
position with major US retailers and increase its large corporate accounts
beyond Boeing, Lazyboy, LVMH, Russell, Sara Lee, Sears, Toyota, WalMart, etc.
according to Harari. An example of the integrated and modular solutions for
the apparel industry from Lectra is shown courtesy of Lectra Systems. (www.lectra.com)
Courtesy
Lectra Systems: Lectra Concept for integrated apparel solution
(Click to see larger
image) Acrobat Reader Required: 
Comtense
Ltd’s apparel CAD system features pattern design, interactive
and automatic marker making and Cut Order planning. In addition, Comtense
demonstrated a 3-D line mannequin where the user can define, for each
area, the ease and
fit allowances beyond the body measurements.(www.comtense.ru)
Archetype, the firm behind Lands’ End’s custom clothing, has
developed an intuitive ordering process that generates a completely unique
product for
every consumer; designed to fit their body in the style and garment they
want. More information can be obtained at www.archetype-solutions.com
GRAFIS demonstrated CAD software for the apparel industry. GRAFIS generates
its basic blocks on the basis of measurement charts and construction instructions.
The basic blocks for bodice, trousers, skirt, sleeve, collar, pockets, etc.
provided with GRAFIS contains all drafting instructions required for the
creation of patterns based on body measurements. GRAFIS claims that its method
of patternmaking
and grading lead to better fitting garments. (www.grafis.de)
Polytropon Automated Systems showed their pattern design, grading and markermaking
system. Polytropon claim a more user friendly and more productive pattern
making system through their unique construction tools combined with unique “snaps” and
keyboard inputs. Polytropon also demonstrated their workflow product data
management system built around the organizational responsibilities for
each part of the
product development process. (www.polytropon.com)
TPC demonstrated the advances being made in 3-D design and the conversion
of the 3-D digital clothing simulations into 2-D patterns. TPC has made significant
advances in 3-D pattern and product design and additional information can
be
found at (www.tpc-intl.com)
Apparel Assembly
The IMB show always presents a wide range of technologies and systems for the assembly of apparel. While there continues to be improvements in software to operate spreaders and cutters, there are only incremental advances is this sector of apparel assembly. One trend that continues is the use of the internet to communicate product specifications and the ability to automatically make markers in preparation for production www.automarker.com. It was evident that technology suppliers very focused on the potential for the Asian and China markets for apparel assembly equipment.
Fusing and Pressing
Fusing and pressing continue to be extremely important areas for apparel manufacturers.
Pressing adds the final form and shape and present a pleasing silhouette
to the consumer. Pressing has become more important as manufacturers adopt
Floor Ready Merchandise. The recent merger of Veit, Brisay and Kannegiesser
has provided the apparel manufacturers a complete range of pressing technology
covering apparel pressing, form finishers, tunnel finishers and presses for
specific products such as jeans, shirts, etc. (www.veit-kannegiesser.com).
A complete shirt pressing line is avail-able from Macpi spa The new Veit-Kannegiesser
fusing press has improved the energy consumption in fusing by providing a
two belt system; one belt for loading and transfer-ring to the fusing zone
and the second to accept the transfer and control through the fusing process.
Fusing machines of this design are available in widths up to 63 inches. (www.veit-kannegiesser.com)
Fusing and laminating technologies were also presented by Macpi (www.macpi.com)
and Machinenfabrik Herbert Meyer GmbH (www.meyer-machines.com).
Gygli Technik AG offered a wide range of fusible fabrics, a variety of machines
for fusing and quality assurance testing devices to evaluate the fused structures.
Gygli specializes in fusibles and technology for the manufacture of shirts.
(www.gygli.ch)
Stitching
Dürkopp Adler will extend its market position in India and China even
further. To gain market shares in India and China is of highest priority
to the Dürkopp Adler group. The group from Bielefeld profits from the
change of customer demands in the Asian area. In China, the qualitative demands
for apparel producers have increased a lot with a trend towards technologically
demanding sewing automated machines according to Durkopp. Durkopp sees
positive signals coming from the markets in India and Latin America. However,
Dürkopp Adler notes a light growth in Latin America, and no foreseeable
upturn in the USA. Durkopp offers an extensive line of sewing machines
for the tailored apparel industry with specializations in shirts, jackets,
pants, and skirts assembly. Durkopp also offers a line of sewing machines
for stitching of technical textiles. Several new models were highlighted
at the IMB show including the buttonholer class 540 and the CNC –controlled
buttonholer class 559 and 589. Class 540 are intended for shirts and blouse
buttonholes. The new 589 permits the sewing of buttonholes in various
shapes and lengths without time consuming changes of knife or cutting block.
The new model 745F includes automation to create a pocket (offset seam
and corner incision adjustment to any shape of flaps as well as alignment
of patterned flaps and welts) (www.duerkopp-adler.com)
 |
| Durkopp-Adler’s 559-151 for “on-demand” buttonhole design |
Pfaff Industrie Maschinen AG exhibited almost 60 models of sewing units
and it was evident that Pfaff has progressed in the incorporation of
digital displays at the work-station and programmable features and
functions. Pfaff
model 3307-3/01 offers electronically controlled button sewing for blind
stitching buttons with the Ascolite stem wrapping system. Pfaff also
exhibited a range of “plusline” machines equipped with
sensors for edge detection, adjustments for different materials and
bobbin thread monitors.
(www.pfaff-industrial.de)
 |
Pfaff
3307-3/01 with Ascolite stem wrapping system
|
Juki-Union Special exhibited a range of 30 machines specializing in
the assembly of knitted apparel, pants and jeans, and technical textiles
including
nets and carpets. (www.unionspecial.com)
Juki exhibited a wide range of sewing technologies and pro-mo ted several
new “oil-less” units
as well as an extensive CIM (Computer Integrated Manufacturing) network
that permitted bi-directional communication between the prod-u ct specification
and the operator. (www.juki.com)
Pegasus featured new models for flatseaming (FS700 series) featuring
4 needle feed-off-the-arm configuration sewing at 4200 rpm for underwear,
t-shirts and briefs. 2 and 3 needle models sewing at 6000 rpm and featuring
a new thread take-up mechanism (model W1500 series) for plain seaming,
binding and attaching elastic. A new series (Model W2600) was introduced
for 2 and 3 needle cylinder bed plain seaming, covering and hemming.
(www.pegasus.co.jp) Brother
featured six units in their new technology zone with dry heads and direct
drive motors. These new machines were 1 and 2 needle lockstitch
machines designed for improved stitch formation and use of electronics.
(www.brother.com )
Embroidery Technology
Manufacturers of embroidery technology and software continue to innovate
and add additional attachments to the embroidery machine. It is worth
noting that the production embroidery machine is now available with 30
heads with
speeds up to 1,100 stitches per minute [Tajima TFGN-930]. Of particular
interest is the addition of chenille attachments to the embroidery machinery.
The chenille embroidery machine is a new type of machine that incorporates
two types of head – one for traditional embroidery and one for chenille.
The chenille embroidery head produces a raised “tufted” look
and is avail-able in up to six colors [Tajima TMCE-G612]. The first chenille
embroidery machines were introduced in the early 1980’s and have
now fully integrated into computer con-trolled design environment and combined
with the traditional embroidery. Embroidery systems continued to innovate
with the addition of a laser head to the traditional embroidery station.
The purpose of the laser head is to be able to produce “cut-work”.
He laser addition allows the manufacturer to use different methods to embellish
the product including: half-cut, appliqué, marking, boring, scallop
embroidery, etc. The half-cut method uses the focused laser beam to cut
the topmost fabric in the stack of multiple layers enabling the under fabric
to be seen as a part of the design. Marking uses the laser to express a
design by etching the surface of the material with the laser [Tajima TFLD
II – 904 and Barudan Laser System]. (www.tajimanet.co.jp)
(www.barudan.co.jp) Laser cutters for
the embroidery industry were also shown by Pointex
s.r.l and SEI s.pa. (www.seispa.com)
 |
Tajima
TFLD with Laser (right) for (half) cutting appliqué
|
Costing and Engineering
Quick TruCost from Methods Workshop demonstrated a new system for fast product
design and development and greatly reduces wasted effort in product develop-met.
Quick TruCost bases its cost estimate on a series of between 8–16
questions about the garment and its construction and is accurate within 7%
according to John Stern of Methods Workshop. In addition, Methods Workshop
offers Engineered TruCost which is a Pre-determined Motion Time System with
speed of application, accuracy and versatility. The most productive use of
Engineered TruCost is to refine and improve manufacturing methods and generate
accurate standard time values. (www.methodsworkshop.com)
To analyze the motions at the workplace, JASI exhibited OTRS-mpeg software
that permits the time study engineer to record the operation and analyze each
element of the operation and assign performance and time values. This system
offers advantages for rate setting and establishing consistent methods across
workstations performing the same tasks. (www.jasi-ie.co.jp)
Management Systems
In
the area of management systems, the emphasis appeared focused on several
key areas. An area that is receiving
significant attention is the use of
RFID product identification systems. RFID – Radio Frequency Identification
tagging can prepare garment tags and identification tickets that incorporate
an RF device. The RF device has a unique RF identification that can be
received by an inventory control device for carton contents verification.
This method of product identification is also of interest to retailers
since the tag can activate security and inventory management systems. The
cost of RFID tagging and ticketing has now reached a cost competitive with
other ticketing systems and offers significant advantages throughout the
entire supply chain. (www.checkpointsystems.com/content/tags/default.aspx)
In the area of production management systems, Fast
React Systems, Ltd. presented
a complete production planning and scheduling solution. This system is a result
of system development completed for a UK garment manufacturer and offers solutions
to order/cut lot tracking and schedule revisions and expediting. (www.fastreact.co.uk)
The supply chain, ERP and forecasting was the second focus area and many systems
were available covering seasonal budget and plan, volume estimates for the
style/color plan, rolling monthly plans and account planning/allocation. A3
Forecast Solutions BV demonstrated a system with modules covering the subject
areas above but several additional modules to improve forecasting. A module
for sales forecasting collected sales data after 10 days when “10-15%
of consumers have visited” the store and re-forecasts the color mix prior
to ordering material for the entire season. A3’s new product forecasting
module builds patterns by product type or group as “metacurves”.
When new product sales are analyzed, the best fit “metacurve” can
be used to project sales for the season. (www.a3forecastsolutions.com)
Summary
IMB 2003 offered the attendee many opportunities to enhance their technology
in all areas of the apparel business from design, through planning, forecasting
and scheduling, to manufacturing solutions for mass production and mass
customization. As always, the opportunity to exchange ideas and views in
the aisles is an intangible that I cannot pen into this review. However,
there is one fledgling idea that should be embraced by all professionals
in the global apparel industry. The organization K.I.D.S. (Kids in Deficient
Situations) is working with the local communities in the underdeveloped
countries currently manufacturing apparel to establish local schools to teach
the next generation. A small levy is proposed on every garment produced from
the local community to build the schools. The first of these schools is being
built in Tirupur, India. (www.K-I-D-S.org)
College
of Textiles
P.O. Box 8301
Raleigh, NC 27695-8301
Telephone: (919) 515-6646
FAX: (919) 515-3733
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