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TABLE OF CONTENTS

Volume 3, Issue 3, Fall 2003 "Emerging Technologies"
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SPINNING MACHINES AT ITMA ‘03
William Oxenham, Professor/Associate Dean of Academic Programs
North Carolina State University, Raleigh, NC

ABSTRACT

The paper reviews new developments in spinning machinery as judged from the exhibits at the recent (‘03) ITMA. There were few surprises and the offerings were mainly improvements in existing technologies. The most notable features were the introduction of a new rotor machine by Savio, the new Murata vortex spinning machine, and novel approaches to compact spinning.

KEYWORDS: Self-Twist Spinning, Fasciated Yarns, Compact Spinning

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Control Systems at ITMA 2003

Robert Barnhardt, Juan Hinestroza, and Jeffrey Joines
College of Textiles, North Carolina State University

ABSTRACT

A comprehensive analysis of the current trends and technologies in control systems for the textile industry is presented. Our approach was first to dissect the important components of an integrated control system and then to determine if and how the components are converging to provide manageable and reliable systems throughout the chain from fiber to the ultimate customer. Although the implementation of advanced process control strategies is not foreseen in the immediate future, it is apparent that the textile industry is slowly moving toward modular machines and systems. The dedicated systems still prevalent today are gradually being replaced by standard units, distributed automation concepts and an increasing connectivity of the production floor with planning and scheduling systems. This level integration has the potential to optimize the information flow throughout the entire Supply Chain.

KEYWORDS: Control systems, Supply Chain, information flow, process control.


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Weaving and Weaving Preparation at ITMA ’03

Abdelfattah M. Seyam
College of Textiles, NC State University
Raleigh, NC, USA

ABSTRACT

This paper extensively reviews the advances in weaving and weaving preparation at ITMA 2003. Whenever appropriate a technical background and/or critical comments are provided. ITMA 2003 has brought to weavers major technological advances that will help weavers to fully control their machines electronically from user friendly interfaces, produce broad range of woven fabrics, manufacture intricate jacquard designs at the speed of commodity fabrics, form leno fabrics faster, inspect fabrics on-loom, use optical and laser detection of warp break, reduce down time due to higher level of automation and quick style and warp beam change.

KEYWORDS: ITMA, Weaving, Automation, Leno Mechanism, On-Loom Inspection

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KNITTING

Timothy W. Ellis
ITT Technologies, Inc.
Services Manager – ITT Technologies, Inc.
Time @it3-services.com
864/331-1700


ABSTRACT

Timothy W. Ellis of ITT Technologies, Inc. reviewed the knitting exhibits at the ITMA exhibition held in October 2003 in Birmingham, England. The review includes details of weft and warp knit machines or technical modifications that were unique from previous exhibitions. The review also includes several related items in support of knitting.

KEYWORDS: Knitting, ITMA 2003, Warp Knitting, Circular Knitting, Knitting Needles, Knitting Feeders

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ITMA 2003 - Chemical Finishing

Peter Hauser
North Carolina State University

ABSTRACT

Textile chemical suppliers who exhibited at ITMA 2003 were surveyed. No novel textile chemicals were announced, but several finishes of interest are discussed.

KEYWORDS: Chemical Finishes

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ITMA 2003- PREPARATION

Peter Hauser
North Carolina State University


ABSTRACT

Wet processing equipment for preparation was reviewed at ITMA 2003. No major innovations were seen, but several interesting offerings are summarized.

KEYWORDS: Preparation Desizing Scouring Bleaching Washing

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LONG STAPLE PROCESSING AND TEXTILE TESTING

Dean R. Cobb
Institute of Textile Technology

ABSTRACT

Several vendors in the long staple processing area and the textile testing unveiled some improvements to their existing offerings. The long staple improvements came in the form of better design, more productivity, more electronic controls, less maintenance requirements, versatility, and cross compatibility with automation of all types. Improvements from some testing vendors mainly concentrated on yielding more information from the same tests; like the sticky cotton measurement from Lintronics and Weavability from Uster.

KEYWORDS: Long staple processing, short staple textile testing,

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ITMA 2003 Mechanical Finishing

R. Scott Bagley
ITT Technologies, Inc.

ABSTRACT

Many general trends in the mechanical finishing area follow those in other areas of the textile world. Many of the companies are consolidating and combining representatives in the market place. Other trends include incremental improvements in machinery and monitoring techniques. There is a noted increase in the degree of technology used to monitor machines both visually and otherwise. The greatest emphasis in the mechanical finishing areas was obviously more efficient and higher quality means to alter the hand characteristic of fabrics. These techniques are seen as cost effective means to add value to a finished fabric and create distinction in finished products. Finally, many vendors highlighted changes and modifications to equipment designed to reduce costs. Energy savings, consumption data, and reducing required operator intervention were highlights in many vendors’ presentations. Following are some specific vendor highlights to elaborate on theses trends. Other vendors may offer similar features. This is not intended to be exhaustive, but representative of general trends.

KEYWORDS: Finish, singe, polish, shear, coat, emerize, suede, solvent scour, weft straightener, heat exchanger, nap, pile

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Short Staple Pre-Spinning Machinery at ITMA ’03

Wade Carter
N.C. State University, College of Textiles, Extension and Applied Research
Email: wade_carter@ncsu.edu

ABSTRACT

Short staple pre-spinning machinery shown at ITMA’03 in Birmingham, England emphasized compact opening lines with integrated multi-functional equipment. New technologies in carding included new machinery design, monitored and controlled waste removal, and a lengthened carding zone. Drawing innovations included a self-optimizing system for setting the break draft and an automatic quick adjustment of roller spacing. No new developments were shown in the short staple lap winding and combing areas. The only interesting feature shown on roving machines was a quick doffing system.

KEYWORDS: Opening/Cleaning/Blending, Carding, Lapping/Combing, Drawing, Roving

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ITMA 2003: REVIEW OF AIR-TEXTURING/INTERMINGLING

Nikhil Dani
PHD, Fiber & Polymer Science

ABSTRACT

Air textured yarns are produced from thermoplastic, cellulosic or non-organic filament yarns using compressed air. Loops are formed on the surface of the filament yarn, giving it a voluminous character. Depending on the material used, the loop structure results in a yarn with characteristics resembling those of conventional staple-fiber yarn. The resulting yarns are used for sewing thread applications, apparel fabrics, fancy yarn articles, automotive interior fittings, and home furnishing fabrics, carpets, fire blankets and a wide range of other applications. This report presents a review of the latest developments in air-jet texturing/intermingling machinery and nozzle manufacturing from around the world that were on display at ITMA 2003 in Birmingham U.K.

KEYWORDS: Air texturing, Intermingling, SSM Staehle, Heberlein, Air jet Nozzles, Intermingling Nozzles, Loops

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ITMA 2003 Review: Textile Printing

Leon S. Moser
College of Textiles, NCSU

ABSTRACT

This paper reviews the new developments shown at ITMA ’03 in the textile printing area. New equipment and techniques were exhibited for flat screen printing, rotary screen printing, and transfer printing. However, the area of digital ink jet textile printing appeared to generate the most overall interest both from the exhibitors’, as well as, the attendees’ point of view. Most people interested in the textile printing area seemed to feel that ITMA ’03 was highly successful.

KEYWORDS: Textile printing, flat screen printing , rotary screen printing, transfer printing, digital ink jet printing


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The North Carolina Textiles Project: An Initial Report

Patrick Conway*, Robert Connolly**, Alfred Field* and Douglas Longman*
* Department of Economics, University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill
** Kenan-Flagler Business School, University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill

ABSTRACT

The phenomenon of increasingly contested international markets due to falling price and non-price barriers to trade in goods and services is one often-discussed dimension of globalization. The textile industry in particular is cited as an example of the dangers of globalization to US firms, workers and communities. Both US economic growth and the standard of living are thought to have fallen as a result of globalization in this industry.

KEYWORDS: globalization, manufacturing, plant analysis

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DOHA ROUND IS STALLED; NOT STOPPED

Sid Smith
Principal, SALCO Consulting LLC
And Former President & CEO of the National Association of Hosiery Manufacturers

ABSTRACT

Don't believe everything you read when you see that this latest round of multilateral trade negotiations (the Doha Round) is over and financed with because of the inability to reach an agreement in Cancun, Mexico. All of this has happened before in other rounds and they have all been resurrected and carried to completion. This one will too and here's why and how.

KEYWORDS: multilateral trade negotiations (MT), Doha Round of trade talks, Cancun Ministerial meeting

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