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TABLE OF CONTENTS
Volume
3, Issue 4, Winter 2004
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Mapping
the Automotive Textile Supply Chain: The Importance of Information
Visibility
Robert Handfield, College of Management;
Robert Barnhardt and
Nancy
Powell,
College of Textiles, NC State University
ABSTRACT
Information visibility is an essential element to improved supply
chain performance. Without adequate sharing of information, firms
are required to supplement the available information with other
costly alternatives. This paper follows the development of a convertible
fabric material in the supply chain for a large automotive assembler,
beginning with a large textile manufacturer in fabric formation
to final assembly of the convertible top. The current level of
information sharing in the supply chain is assessed and the effects
of inefficient information flows between the various tiers of suppliers
are determined. In order to improve performance in this supply
chain and create a truly integrated value systems, a number of
tactical and strategic changes will be required throughout the
automotive textile supply chain.
KEYWORDS: convertible fabric material, supply chain, automotive
textiles
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Studies towards Lightfast
Automotive Dyes for Polyester
Harold S. Freeman, Natacha Berthelon, and Laura C. Edwards
Fiber and Polymer Science Program
North Carolina State University, Box 8301
Raleigh, NC 27695, USA
Harold_Freeman@ncsu.edu ABSTRACT
This paper provides an overview of studies conducted in our dye
chemistry laboratories that were directed towards the design, synthesis,
and evaluation of dyes for polyester fibers for applications requiring
high lightfastness. Presented are results from the early studies
in our program that involved characterizing the chemistry associated
with the light-induced (photo) degradation of azo, anthraquinone,
and nitrodiphenylamine disperse dyes in an ester environment. This
is followed by a summary of molecular design efforts based on results
from dye photodegradation experiments. In this case, results pertaining
to the utility of built-in photostabilizer groups for enhancing
disperse dye lightfastness (resistance to light-induced fading)
are discussed. Special attention is given in this paper to studies
in which the effects of natural and artificial light on oriented
polyester films following the application of azo, anthraquinone
and nitrodiphenylamine dyes were assessed. This work was part of
an investigation aimed at determining the contribution of polyester
to the fading of disperse dyes. In this regard, dyed polyester
films were exposed to sunlight from two regions in the United States
and to the artificial light of an Atlas Weatherometer. The results
of the different exposures indicate that artificial light exposures
were far more damaging to the polymer host than natural light.
It was also apparent that a significant level of dye fading could
be attributed to substrate degradation. KEYWORDS: dye, fading, lightfastness, polyester
films, exposure
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DESIGN DRIVEN
The Development of New Materials in Automotive Interiors
Nancy
B. Powell
North Carolina State University
ABSTRACT
Design
is a critical component of the development of textile materials
for automotive interiors. It contributes to the overall quality
and cost of the vehicle interior. The appearance of the vehicle
passenger cabin affects the perception and satisfaction of
the occupants. This research analyzes how a fabric is developed
through the supply chain from concept to product launch. The
interrelationships between designers at each tier level are
considered. The market factors are reviewed and the specific
design issues important to fabric development in future transportation
products are identified. This research reveals processes and
considerations for new product development for academic and
industrial consideration.
KEYWORDS: Design,
automotive interiors, upholstery, development process
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Knitting Shells in the Third
Dimension
J. Power MA BSc ATI CTexT
Lecturer in Fashion Technology
Manchester Metropolitan University
Department of Clothing Design and Technology
Faculty of Food, Clothing and Hospitality
Hollings Campus
Old Hall Lane
Manchester
ABSTRACT
In order to produce textile structures intended for technical
applications it is essential to have a full understanding of the
geometrical properties and be able to guarantee exact replicas
can be manufactured. This paper discusses some of the issues related
to the controlled knitting of carbon yarn into three-dimensional
3-D shell shapes and the affect on the structural geometry. The
study begins with an examination into the basic issues affecting
the knitability of the selected yarn. Health and safety problems
are addressed and the resultant carbon yarn was modified to reduce
the chances of electrical failure due to conductive fibre fly.
Initially two factors were considered relating to the structures
geometry, however it was found that a third consideration was required
when examining 3-D integrally knitted products. This study identified
a maximum variation regarding the stitch length during knitting
and devised a methodology to use when considering a yarn for use
in 3-D shells. It was found that a two-phase approach was required
when producing knitted 3-D shells, part mathematical and part empirical.
KEYWORDS: Knitting, Carbon, 3-D Shell, Technical, Textiles, Weft
knitting.
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Global
Sourcing and Textile and Apparel Import Values: A Four-Country
Study as an Application of Global Commodity Chains Theory
Eun-Ju
Lee, Ph.D., Department of Marketing, 5151 State University
Drive, California State University, Los Angeles, CA 90032-8127,
e-mail: elee9@calstatela.edu Phone: 323-343-2967 (FAX 5462)
Kwang-Bae
Lee, Ph.D., Professor, School of Textile Engineering, Soong
Sil University Seoul, Korea
Marguerite
Moore, Ph.D., Assistant Professor, Department of Retailing,
University of South Carolina Columbia, SC 29208 e-mail: mmoore11@gwm.sc.edu
ABSTRACT
The
authors use Gerrefi’s (1999) Global Commodity Chains Theory
to guide examination of U.S. textile and apparel imports from
four countries including Hong Kong, South Korea, Bangladesh,
and Italy. These four countries represent different developmental
stages and hold varying export positions in the buyer-driven
apparel commodity chain. Unit values of U.S. apparel and textile
imports are estimated using OTEXA trade data (1999-2001). Data
analyses suggest conformity between Gerefetti’s theory
and differences in unit values among countries with different
export positions.
KEYWORDS:
Global sourcing, Global Commodity Chain, Export positions, Unit
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Comfort Characteristics of Fabrics Containing
Twist-less and Hollow Fibrous Assemblies in Weft
A
Das & S M Ishtiaque
Department of Textile Technology, Indian Institute of Technology,
New Delhi 110 016, India
ABSTRACT
Comfort
characteristics of plain-woven fabrics, containing viscose staple
fiber twist-less and hollow fibrous assemblies and core-sheath
type DREF-III yarn in weft, have been reported in the present
paper. The twist-less and hollow fibrous assemblies are the individually
separated parallel core and annular sheath components respectively
of core-sheath type DREF-III yarn. In all these fabrics the same
warp yarn, i.e. two-ply ring spun yarn was used. Three different
types of weft yarn were prepared in DREF-III system; (i) 59 tex
yarn with staple viscose fiber in both core and sheath, (ii)
118 tex yarn with staple viscose fiber in core and water soluble
staple PVA fiber in sheath, and (iii) 118 tex yarn with staple
PVA in core and staple viscose in sheath. The core-sheath ratio
was kept 50:50% for all the DREF-III yarns. The idea is to maintain
the same weft yarns count (59 tex) in all the three finished
fabrics (after removal of PVA component), with different structure
of fibrous assembly in weft. The structure of fibrous assemblies
in weft has great impact on the comfort related properties, i.e.
air permeability, thermal conductivity, percentage water vapour
permeability, wicking and water absorbency.
KEYWORDS: Core, DREF-III yarn, Fibrous assembly, Hollow, Sheath, Twist-less
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The Development of Woven Velours for the Transportation Market
Scott Manley
Nancy B. Powell
NCSU University
ABSTRACT
Woven pile fabrics may be found in upholstery, apparel, and industrial
applications. This fabric formation technology may produces a variety
of pile heights and densities appropriate to the end use. The development
of woven velour fabrics for upholstery has become a specialized
competency with few training possibilities outside the machinery
manufacturers or in house training at the few companies who hold
the experience and expertise. This research looks at the fundamentals
of pile weaving and in particular, the steps in producing a woven
velour for the high performance standards of automotive and other
transportation upholstery. This research should be helpful to students,
academics and industry as it provides information on the design
and manufacturing processes in the US market providing examples
for technical specifications and simulations.
KEYWORDS: pile weaving, velour, velvet, automotive upholstery
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GIANT VEHICLES
Magdi A. Said
Goddard Space Flight Center
Wallops Island, VA 23337
Willi W. Schur
Physical Science Laboratory
New Mexico State University
Field Engineering Office: GSFC-WFF
Wallops Island, VA 23337
Amit Gupta, Gary N. Mock, Abdelfattah M. Seyam*, and Thomas Theyson
College of Textiles
NC State University
Raleigh, NC 27695-8301
ABSTRACT
Science and technology development from balloon-borne telescopes
and experiments is a rich return on a relatively modest involvement
of NASA resources. For the past three decades, the development
of increasingly competitive and complex science payloads and observational
programs from high altitude balloon-borne platforms has yielded
significant scientific discoveries. The success and capabilities
of scientific balloons are closely related to advancements in the
textile and plastic industries. This paper will present an overview
of scientific balloons as a viable and economical platform for
transporting large telescopes and scientific instruments to the
upper atmosphere to conduct scientific missions. Additionally,
the paper sheds the light on the problems associated with UV degradation
of high performance textile components that are used to support
the payload of the balloon and proposes future research to reduce/eliminate
Ultra Violet (UV) degradation in order to conduct long-term scientific
missions.
KEYWORDS: Scientific Balloon, Payload, High Performance Fibers,
UV Resistant, Tendon, Gore
* Communicating Author
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AUTOMOTIVE INDUSTRY A HIGH
POTENTIAL MARKET FOR NONWOVENS SOUND INSULATION
Simona Vasile
Lieva Van Langenhove
Gent University, Belgium
Simonaileana.vasile@ugent.be
lieva.vanlangenhove@ugent.be ABSTRACT This paper highlights the increasing penetration of nonwovens
in automotive sector and their suitability for certain applications
(e.g. sound insulation). Suitable technologies and raw materials
to process insulations are discussed and remarks regarding their
advantages and disadvantages are pointed out. As the recyclability
is one of the main drivers of automotive industry, especially in
Europe, a deeper insight has been given to natural, renewable resources,
and their advantages and downsides have been underlined, in comparison
with some traditional materials. KEYWORDS:
automotive, nonwovens, sound insulation, technologies, renewable
resources, recyclability
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DIVERSIFIED EXPANSION AND DIFFERENT
BUSINESS MODELS
IN THE JAPANESE TEXTILE INDUSTRY
ASLI
M. COLPAN
Kyoto
Institute of Technology, Graduate School of Advanced Fibro-science
and Kyoto University, Graduate School of Economics
ABSTRACT
Diversification
into non-textile activities became the major instrument for
Japan’s large textile enterprises which confronted the
maturing state of their original businesses. Diversification
strategies that companies adopted exhibited the different directions
in their basic investment patterns. The present research confirms
that dissimilar technological resource and capability endownments
have decisive impacts on the contrasting long-term growth patterns
of the companies. The timing of new market entry is also endogenous
to the firm resources and capabilities. While firms adapt to
the changing environments, diversification can thus be a very
much path-dependent process.
KEYWORDS:
textile industry, Japan, technological resources and capabilities,
diversification strategy
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Smart Textiles in Vehicles:
A Foresight
Lieva Van Langenhove, Carla Hertleer
Ghent University, Department of Textiles, Technologiepark 907,
B 9052 Gent (Belgium)
Lieva.VanLangenhove@ugent.be, Carla Hertleer@ugent.be
ABSTRACT
After technical textiles and functional
textiles, also smart textiles came into force a few years ago.
The term ‘smart textiles’ covers
a broad range. The application possibilities are only limited by
our imagination and creativity. This paper gives an overview of
the functions that can be achieved by smart textiles in general.
In vehicles as well, smart textiles can introduce new features.
Two examples are described, namely climate control based on comfort
of the passengers, and detection of reduced attention of a driver.
KEYWORDS: Smart textiles, functional textiles, automotive textiles
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