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TABLE OF CONTENTS Volume
4, Issue 1, Summer 2004 |
 For best viewing, use Acrobat Reader 4.0 or higher |
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| FEMALE FIGURE IDENTIFICATION
TECHNIQUE (FFIT) FOR APPAREL PART I: DESCRIBING FEMALE SHAPES Karla Simmons, Ph.D. University of Missouri ABSTRACT Sizing standards used in the United States that
identify the body measurements used in the design and development
of clothing were
established from identified “best practices” of the
apparel industry. However, the industry as a whole has not adopted
a single system of clothing sizing. We know that manufacturers
and retailers use their own sizing systems as a marketing tool,
convinced that this is a differential advantage of their product
for their market. Regardless of the sizing systems used, however,
almost all are based on the myth that humans have mathematically
proportional bodies and that they grow in proportional ways. In
addition, the shapes and proportions of today’s American
population differ greatly from the shapes of the generations before.
So a variety of issues impact our inability to ‘fit’ the
American customer of today. These fit issues continue to be a growing
concern. KEYWORDS: FFIT for Apparel, shape sorting, sizing standards, mass
customization, fit, female figure types |
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| FEMALE FIGURE IDENTIFICATION
TECHNIQUE (FFIT) FOR APPAREL PART II: DEVELOPMENT OF SHAPE SORTING SOFTWARE Karla Simmons, Ph.D. University of Missouri ABSTRACT Sizing standards used in the United States
that identify the body measurements used in the design and development
of clothing were
established from identified “best practices” of the
apparel industry. However, the industry as a whole has not adopted
a single system of clothing sizing. We know that manufacturers
and retailers use their own sizing systems as a marketing tool,
convinced that this is a differential advantage of their product
for their market. Regardless of the sizing systems used, however,
almost all are based on the myth that humans have mathematically
proportional bodies and that they grow in proportional ways. In
addition, the shapes and proportions of today’s American
population differ greatly from the shapes of the generations before.
So a variety of issues impact our inability to ‘fit’ the
American customer of today. These fit issues continue to be a growing
concern. KEYWORDS: FFIT for Apparel, shape sorting, sizing standards, mass
customization, fit, female figure types |
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VALIDATION OF ‘FEMALE FIGURE IDENTIFICATION
TECHNIQUE
(FFIT) FOR APPAREL SOFTWARE Priya
Devarajan ABSTRACT The software “Female Figure Identification Technique (FFIT) for Apparel’ was developed at North Carolina State University, College of Textiles as a starting point to classify females based on their body shapes. The nine body shapes identified in the software could be used effectively to implement mass customization strategies in the apparel retail industry. In addition the shapes could be used in developing new sizing standards for the apparel industry. The software was built using a convenience sample of 253 female subjects primarily from the state of North Carolina. This study was developed to validate the software using a larger population. Multivariate statistical methods of discriminant analysis and Multivariate Analysis of Variance (MANOVA) were used for the validation process. The percentage accuracy of the FFIT for Apparel© software was found to be around 90% and was better than the discriminant function developed from the training sample used to build the software. During the validation process, the scans were visually analyzed and many interesting details throwing light on the influence of body scan data on shape analysis were found. KEYWORDS: Female Figure Identification Technique (FFIT) for Apparel, Body shape studies, Apparel sizing
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| CONSUMER
INTEREST IN COMMERCIAL APPLICATIONS OF BODY SCAN DATA
Suzanne Loker, Susan P. Ashdown, Lora Cowie & Katherine A. Schoenfelder Cornell University ABSTRACT Three dimensional body scan technology is being targeted for utilization in the apparel industry, specifically for automated custom fit, size and fit prediction, virtual try-on, personal shopper services, co-design mass customization, custom pattern development for home sewers, and research. But the ultimate success of commercial applications of body scan data will be consumer acceptance and use of the applications. In this study, we surveyed a sample of 203 women 34-55 years of age about their interest in these six commercial and apparel research applications after they were scanned. The results indicated high interest by over 80% of the sample in virtual try-on, size prediction, custom fit, and personal shoppers. When asked to select the application of highest appeal, virtual try-on was selected by 35% of the sample while custom fit, size prediction, and personal shopper applications were selected by 15-16% each. Women with dissatisfaction with ready-to-wear pant fit, higher incomes, and Internet buyers were significantly more likely to look for and purchase clothing on the Internet if these scan-based applications were available commercially. Recommendations are made for future experimental and focus group research to study how consumer interest in adopting these applications could be stimulated. KEYWORDS: 3-D body scanning, mass customization, virtual try-on,
custom fit, size prediction, Internet shopping, consumer decision
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| USING 3D SCANS FOR FIT ANALYSIS
Susan P. Ashdown, Suzanne Loker, Katherine Schoenfelder, and Lindsay Lyman-Clarke Cornell University ABSTRACT This research tested the effectiveness of using 3D scans of clothed participants in the fit analysis process. A panel of three expert judges viewed scans of 155 Misses size participants in the best fitting size of a test pant style. They rated 13 fit locations as Acceptable, Marginal or Unacceptable and then gave overall ratings for both front and back views. The ratings for all judges were added together to develop Acceptable, Marginal, and Unacceptable categories for each area and then compared using frequencies, means, and percentages to identify problem fit areas. Ease, line, balance, and set elements of fit were clearly seen on the visualizations of the scans and grain could be evaluated by its effect on silhouette. We concluded that substituting 3D scans for the live fit analysis process in research and industry has potential for 1) recording one single instance of fit that can be rotated and enlarged to view specific areas of analysis, 2) creating databases of scans of a variety of body shapes and sizes wearing a single size (in essence, testing multiple fit models), 3) scanning garments on fit models in multiple poses to evaluate garment/body relationships during natural movements, and 4) holding virtual expert panels where panelists can access the fit session at any location. KEYWORDS: body scan, 3D data, visualization, fit analysis |
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| E-COMMERCE
ADOPTION FOR SUPPLY CHAIN MANAGEMENT IN U.S. APPAREL MANUFACTURERS
Liuying Shen, Ph.D. ABSTRACT E-commerce made supply chain management (SCM) technically viable and unleashed the practice of SCM. The U.S. apparel industry, due to its own characteristics, has not utilized E-commerce for SCM as widely as it could have. The purpose of this exploratory study is to increase understanding of the determinants for adoption of E-commerce in SCM within the U.S. apparel industry, and to test the value of supply chain structure and company strategies in explaining E-commerce adoption. Mail and email surveys were conducted to collect the data. Simple regression and ANOVA were used to test the hypotheses. The results confirmed with the literature that perceived E-commerce characteristics and organization characteristics influence the E-commerce adoption level although not every factor of these two groups does so. The study also showed that one of the factors in supply chain structure, SCM integration level, was significantly related to the E-commerce adoption level.KEYWORDS:
E-commerce, supply chain management, innovation adoption,
apparel industry |
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| CHARACTERISTICS,
MOTIVATIONS, AND SATISFACTION OF COLLEGE STUDENTS WHO SHOP AT NON-STORE
BASED RETAILERS
Geraldine H. Ray, Associate Professor The overall purpose of this research project was to examine the non-store based shopping practices of college students. Specifically, a survey was conducted to find out whether a relationship exists between personal characteristics, motivations, and satisfaction of college students who shop at non-store based retailers. A self-selected sample of 761 college students was administered a questionnaire which took approximately 10 minutes to complete. Recruitment of subjects occurred on different days of the week and at different times of the day (excluding weekends) to minimize selection bias. Chi Square and Logistic Regression revealed main effects for gender and satisfaction with the non-store based shopping experience; there were no significant effects found between personal characteristics and motivations to shop at non-store based retailers. Main effects were found for satisfaction with payment method, gender, and employment. KEYWORDS: Non-store based retailers, personal characteristics and motivations
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MECHANICAL AND THERMAL BEHAVIORS OF FIRST CHOICE, SECOND CHOICE AND RECYCLED P-ARAMID FIBERS XAVIER
FLAMBARD , MANUELA FERREIRA, BERNARD VERMEULEN, SERGE BOURBIGOT ABSTRACT The paper reports cutting, abrasion, fire and thermal behavior of different para-aramide fibers. Different qualities of p-aramid fibers were evaluated: first choice fibers (Kevlar®), second choice fibers and recycled fibers. Despite of a very different cost, some properties (cutting and thermal behavior) remain very close and do not depend on the quality of the fibers. In the other hand, the different processes, to produce those fibers, make some difference in terms of behavior, which can cause damage, especially for protective clothing. KEYWORDS: Aramid, recycled-aramid, protective clothing, cutting, abrasion, flame retardant. |
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| GRAFT
COPOLYMERIZATION OF METHACRYLOYLOXYETHYL TRIMETHYL AMMONIUM CHLORIDE
MONOMER ONTO POLYAMIDE 66 FIBRES
D. Saïhi, A. El-Achari, I.
Vroman, C. Cazé ABSTRACT Graft copolymerisation of methacryloyloxyethyl trimethyl ammonium chloride monomer {H2C=C(CH3)CO2CH2CH2N(CH3)3Cl} (METAC) onto polyamide knitted fabrics using sodium persulfate as initiator has been investigated. The contents of METAC (quaternary ammonium groups) on polyamide fabrics are extremely valuable for further surface modifications (dyeing, printing, etc.). The effect of factors that may affect the grafting yield, such as monomer concentration, initiator concentration, temperature, and reaction time, have been examined. Suitable conditions that give the highest graft yield are reported. The impact of graft modification on the fibres is evaluated by several techniques: elementary analysis, thermogravimetric analysis, FTIR spectroscopy and zeta potential measurements. KEYWORDS: polyamide 66 fibers, quaternary ammonium, thermal analysis, FTIR spectroscopy, zeta potential.
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A
CASE FOR THE REVISION OF U.S. SIZING STANDARDS
Beth Newcomb, M.S. ABSTRACT Apparel consumers today have difficulties finding clothes that provide appropriate fit. In large part, this can be attributed to the outdated sizing standards based on decades-old anthropometric data used by apparel firms to create patterns. This study determines the inadequacies of ASTM sizing standards at meeting the needs of consumers in three target groups, segmented by age: Juniors, Missy, and Over55. Using Body Shape Analysis Software (FFIT for Apparel©), SizeUSA data and ASTM measurement data were analyzed for each of the three age groups. Resulting graphs allowed for comparison between the body shapes that predominate in each age group (based on SizeUSA samples) and the body shapes that are accommodated best by the ASTM standards. Results and implications of these comparisons are included in the article. KEYWORDS:
Sizing, Fit, SizeUSA, Body Measurements, FFIT for Apparel© |
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DIGITAL CREATIVITY: THE IMPACT OF DIGITAL
IMAGING TECHNOLOGY ON THE CREATIVE PRACTICE OF PRINTED TEXTILE
AND SURFACE PATTERN DESIGN
Cathy Treadaway, Research Assistant ABSTRACT The development of digital imaging technology for printed textile and surface pattern design has been driven by its use as a production tool rather than as a design medium. It has been successfully deployed by industry for the reduction of cycle times in product development, prototyping and communication but its full potential in the creative domain has yet to be realised. This paper contends that it is possible to unlock the potential for innovation when digital imaging technology is embraced as meta-media containing a wealth of embedded knowledge and skills in virtual space. The initial phase of phenomenological research into the creative use of digital imaging by surface pattern and textile practitioners being undertaken at University of Wales Institute Cardiff has revealed that creative expression is being enhanced through an evolving visual language, development of new craft techniques and the possibilities that it provides for collaboration and communication. On going empirical research described in the paper illustrates how creative practice can be explored through a sharing of imagination in virtual space and the resulting material artefact is a phenomena of both individual and shared expressive responses. KEYWORDS: Digital imaging, design medium, virtual space |
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| WHAT VIRTUAL
REALITY CAN OFFER TO THE FURNITURE INDUSTRY
Hyunjoo
Oh, So-Yeon Yoon, & Jana Hawley, ABSTRACT The
U.S. furniture, home furnishings, and textile industries
are faced with threats from less expensive imports and as
a result must become more strategic with regard to consumer
preferences, effective marketing, and supply chain management.
As a significant market for textiles, the sustainability
of furniture and home furnishing industries is vital to the
U.S. textile industry. This paper focuses on the furniture
industry. The sustainability of the furniture industry lies
on product variety, mass customization, and speed to market
based on understanding of consumer preferences. Authors suggest
Virtual Reality as a viable tool that may offer ultimate
solutions to many identified problems that the furniture
industry faces. Finally, the authors propose the Virtual
Reality Integrated System (VRIS) as an innovative way for
the U.S. furniture industry to more effectively address this
situation and ultimately gain a more competitive stance in
the furniture marketplace and, as a result, have positive
impact on the textile industry. |
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| APPLICATION
OF NANOTECHNOLOGY FOR HIGH PERFORMANCE TEXTILES
Lei
Qian Juan
P. Hinestroza ABSTRACT This paper summarizes the recent development of nanotechnology in textile areas including textile formation and textile finishing. Details on two major technical aspects, using nanosize entities and employing specific techniques to create nanosize structure inside textile materials, have been elucidated. A number of nanosize fillers and their resultant performances have been reviewed. Particularly, nanolayer assembly, a new concept of textile surface coating, has been introduced. At the end, perspectives regarding future development of nanotechnology for smart and intelligent textiles have been addressed. KEYWORDS: Nanotechnology, nanosize fillers, nanosize structure, nanoparticles, cellular structure
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LESSONS LEARNED FROM THE HISTORY OF TECHNOLOGY
ADOPTION IN THE US TEXTILE INDUSTRY
Dr.
W. Douglas Cooper ABSTRACT Frederick Allen, writing in American Heritage of Invention and Technology discusses the nation’s technological achievements during the twentieth century. In his article he reminds the young reader that the seeming chaos created for the current generation by an information age, where changes are discontinuous and happening at a geometric rate, are not really new to human history. The same type of chaos was well known to the great-grandfathers of the current generation. KEYWORDS:
Invention, technology, supply and production. |
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INTERACTIVE INTERNET BUSINESS TOOLS FOR
PROMOTING "MADE IN ROMANIA" TEXTILE AND APPAREL PRODUCTS"
Mihai
Scarlat, M.Sc. ABSTRACT The Textile Industry is one of the major industrial sectors from Romania, keeping in mind that Romanian Textile Industry has exported in 2002 more than 40 per cent from the entire national exports in European Union countries. In fact, the most of the products exported in EU countries were manufactured in CMT (Lohn) system. Looking deeply in the entire Romanian textile Industry we must emphases the fact that only a few Romanian companies are trying to export the products designed and manufactured by their design departments. At January 1-st 2005, the Agreement on Textiles and Clothing (ATC) will end, and with it the quota system for international trade in textiles and clothing. In order to survive after the deep crisis that will be generated after quota system for international trade in textiles and clothing will end; the Romanian Textile and Apparel Companies must find new solutions for promoting their own designed products. In nowadays, Romanian companies have two alternatives, in order to export the products designed and manufactured by themselves: to participate at the international fairs and exhibitions or to exploit the technological advantages of the Internet communication systems. Both alternatives are extremely hard to be applied because participation at an international fair means a great investment in money and time, and by the other hand the experience and skills on developing innovative business-to-business tools for promoting the own designed textile products are very poor in Romania. The
paper presents some new interactive tools, developed to push
the major companies from the Romanian Textile Industry in a new
phase of their business developing, by selling on the European
Market not just their labor force but also their original designs
and products. Though the Interactive E-Business Tools systems, the Romanian Textile Companies will be able expose their own designed products, to collect sample requests and to get production orders. The new B2B tools are interactive and there are not managed by the RomTextiles, E-Marketplace administrators those tools are individually managed by the Romanian Textile companies, over the Internet. KEYWORDS: Electronic Marketplace, B2B, textile, Internet, electronic marketing, apparel, CMT
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| DESIGNERS MANAGING TECHNOLOGY
Terence Kavanagh, ABSTRACT A version of this paper; 'Textiles and Translation' was presented at the Conference 'Creativity - Designer meets Technology' at Philadelphia University, May 10 & 11 2004. In 1993 an undergraduate programme at Loughborough College of Art and Design [UK] in ‘Embroidery’ changed its name and broadened its curriculum to ‘Multi-Media Textile Design’. Student’s continued to employ traditional textile processes but were also encouraged to explore unconventional materials, emerging technologies and exploit processes from other disciplines. The results are often extraordinary. The design concepts produced have won many awards and have often been taken up by commerce and industry, however, as a result of taking unconventional approaches, there have often been problems in creating artifacts that would translate into replicable manufacture. In 1998 the College merged with Loughborough University, well known for its comprehensive technological resources and expertise. Cross campus collaboration and the establishment of a graduate programme has produced new opportunities for textile design research students exploring emerging technologies. Their experiences are helping to establish the methodologies that are required to achieve the requisite understanding and skills to produce innovative textile products in the future. KEYWORDS: Research, Textile Design, Creativity, Technology |
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