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TABLE OF CONTENTS Volume
4, Issue 3, Spring 2005 |
 For best viewing, use Acrobat Reader 7.0 or higher |
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| Size-specific
Analysis of Body Scan Data to Improve Apparel Fit
Suzanne
Loker, Susan Ashdown, and Katherine Schoenfelder
KEYWORDS: apparel, body scan, fit, sizing system |
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| THREE
DIMENSIONAL SEAMLESS GARMENT KNITTING ON V-BED FLAT KNITTING
MACHINES
Wonseok
Choi, Ph. D. Student ABSTRACT Since the introduction of seamless garment knitting techniques on V-bed machines in 1995, this technology has been considered an innovative process and is currently growing in its commercial application around the world. By eliminating the cutting and sewing processes, complete garment knitting provides a variety of advantages in knitting production such as savings in cost and time, higher productivity, quick response production and other advantages. The purpose of this research is to review the principles of seamless knitting on V-bed machines and to compare the machines from two major flat-knitting machine suppliers, Shima Seiki and Stoll. This paper will also discuss characteristics and applications of complete garment knitting in various products. This research was accomplished through interviews and a review of the literature. It has implications for academicians and industrial personnel who require information in three dimensional knitting technology and related machinery. KEYWORDS: Knitting,
tubular, seamless, complete garment |
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| Behavior
of Prepared-For-Print Fabrics in Digital Printing
Traci May-Plumlee,
Assistant Professor JiHyun
Bae ABSTRACT Engineered print design for sewn products can reduce material waste and facilitate customized design of textile products. But, digital printing systems must produce output reliably and consistently for integration into a production process. This study examined changes in dimension and grain alignment of digitally printed and post-treated prepared-for-print (PFP) cotton fabric. Following post-treatment, substantial shrinkage and some skewing of the printed design was found. Furthermore, dimensional change results from one fabric were not predictive of results for a second fabric. These performance concerns impact end product quality and adaptability to the production environment. Future work should focus on delineating an optimum set of pretreatment conditions for PFP fabrics that will result in proper grain orientation and minimal, predictable shrinkage. KEYWORDS:
Digital textile printing, Print Design, Engineered Print,
Ink jet printing, Prepared-for-print Fabric, Printing Quality |
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| TAKING
ADVANTAGE OF THE DESIGN POTENTIAL OF DIGITAL PRINTING TECHNOLOGY
FOR APPAREL
J.R. Campbell, Associate Professor,
Iowa State University Jean Parsons, Assistant Professor,
Iowa State University ABSTRACT The integration of digital technologies into apparel forms allows designers to explore and visualize new creative possibilities. How the technology is used and how design concepts are perceived in the industry are areas of crucial importance to the technology’s longevity. Our goal, as collaborative artists, focuses on integrating technology into the creative process to create both art and industry-oriented apparel. The applications of digital textile and apparel design have implications for many areas of the industry, but we have focused on three: art-to-wear, custom design, and mass customizable products. The body of research and artwork that we have developed suggests that a systematic approach to integrating new technologies into the textile and apparel design process can be developed, recorded and employed in future design explorations to inspire the most rapid technology integration with the greatest potential for new product conceptualization. KEYWORDS:
Digital textile printing, apparel design, design process,
art-to-wear |
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| Expanding
Garment Functionality through Embedded Electronic Technology
Lucy E. Dunne1, Susan P. Ashdown2, Barry Smyth1 1{lucy.dunne,
barry.smyth}@ucd.ie 2spa4@cornell.edu ABSTRACT Electronic technology offers exciting new possibilities for functional clothing design. Technology allows a garment’s functionality to become dynamically adaptable, changing in response to environmental or situational changes. However, there are many challenges to integrating electronic technology into a textile-based garment structure. This paper outlines some of the possibilities and challenges to apparel designers in this new field, and highlights the importance of the apparel design perspective in the successful design of wearable technology. KEYWORDS:
Wearable technology, smart clothing, wearable computing,
functional clothing, apparel design |
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| FIT
ANALYSIS OF LIQUID COOLED VEST PROTOTYPES USING 3D BODY SCANNING
TECHNOLOGY
JinHee Nam, Ph.D. Student/Graduate
Research Associate ABSTRACT First responders are frequently exposed to hazardous materials and hostile environments that necessitate wearing specially devised personal protective equipment (PPE). Personal cooling garments play an important role in reducing thermal stress associated with wearing insulative and impermeable PPE. As conduction is the primary cooling mechanism for liquid cooled garments (LCGs), there is need for intimate contact between the skin and garment. The fit of two liquid cooled vests was compared and analyzed through use of a3D body scanner. Visual images from thirteen volunteer subjects, primarily first responders and life safety specialists, were used to evaluate the fit of both cooling vest prototypes. Perceptual data from the subjects provided user feedback on the prototype vests. The results indicated that both prototypes received high scores in the expert fit ratings although prototype II received higher ratings in many body areas. Ratings from the subjects’ perceived fit ballot also indicated that prototype II was rated higher although both vests received high marks. KEYWORDS: 3D body scanning, anthropometric data, cooling garment, LCGs, cooling vest, liquid cooled vest, fit analysis
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| Understanding
Aesthetic Preference: Approaches Toward Improved Product Development Janet Hethorn ABSTRACT Every garment has a visual presence and every garment provides physical qualities in relationship with the body. In the design process, both functional and aesthetic attributes contribute to the overall success of the complete apparel system for the consumer. New developments in technology and materials have generated interesting applications toward this goal through functional design research. Research on aesthetic preference – consumer visual response and desire- is also taking advantage of these opportunities. This paper highlights the possibilities and the roadblocks present in exploring aesthetic issues, in combination with other factors in the design process. Several examples are provided of design research on aesthetic preference and new possibilities are suggested that take advantage of emerging technology directions. KEYWORDS: aesthetic
preference, visual style, appearance, design process |
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| BIOMECHANICAL
ANALYSIS OF A PROTOTYPE SPORTS BRA
Cathy Starr,
Oklahoma State University, College of Human Environmental
Sciences, Design, Housing, & Merchandising, 431 HES,
Stillwater, OK 74078, (405)-744-5035, bcstarr@provalue.net ABSTRACT KEYWORDS: biomechanical research, sports bras, brassieres, vertical breast displacement, breast discomfort, female exercise, and human motion. |
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| Fabric Drape Measurement:
A Modified Method Using Digital Image Processing
Narahari Kenkare and Traci May- Plumlee ABSTRACT The textile and clothing industry has traditionally used Cusick Drapemeter for the assessment of fabric drape. In this paper, a modified method of measuring fabric drape using the Cusick Drapemeter was demonstrated. The modified method involves digitally capturing image and processing it in simple steps using image processing software. The study was conducted using a range of woven fabric samples. The fabrics were conventionally evaluated using the Cusick Drapemeter (British Standard Institute: BS5058, 1974). Digital images of the draped fabrics were captured and processed as well using the modified method. Drape coefficient was selected to use as the comparative parameter to evaluate the results from conventional and digital method. The average drape coefficient of each fabric sample obtained through the conventional cut-and-weigh technique was compared statistically with that obtained through the modified digital technique. The study demonstrates that results of the modified digital method for evaluating drape were similar to that of conventional method of drape evaluation. KEYWORDS:
Fabric Drape, Cusick Drapemeter, Testing Instruments, Textile Measurement |
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The Critical Success Factors of Sourcing Production for Small and
Medium-sized Clothing Firms in Hong Kong ABSTRACT The main purpose of this paper is to identify the critical success factors (CSFs) of sourcing production, and to study the impacts of production sourcing strategies, buyer supplier relationships and firm-related characteristics on the level of satisfaction with sourcing performance. Using a multiple case methodology to study ten firms and a two-phase data collection approach, in-depth interviews and mail questionnaires, we found that the industrial sector is the only firm-related characteristic that has an influence on sourcing performance satisfaction. Also, the firms that have adopted insourcing were more satisfied with their sourcing performance than those that adopted outsourcing. Based on the level of satisfaction with a firm’s sourcing performance, we identified three main CSFs for production sourcing: (1) to build relationships with production provider personnel at all levels, (2) to develop a comprehensive communication plan with production providers; and (3) to choose the production providers carefully. KEYWORDS: Small and medium-sized enterprises (SMEs); production sourcing strategy; critical success factors (CSFs); performance satisfaction; buyer-supplier relationship |
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Elizabeth
Bye and Karen LaBat ABSTRACT The fit session is the main point of evaluation for a garment during the product development process. This paper presents an analysis of the perceptions and practices of apparel industry professionals regarding best practices and areas for improvement for fit sessions. Participants from a large manufacturer of athletic apparel, including designers, merchandisers, product development managers, and pattern makers a responded to a survey. Their responses suggest that fit sessions encompass product development decisions that extend beyond the fit of the garment. The evaluation of the design is of equal importance. Recommendations are made to address the organization and communication of industry fit sessions with suggestions for using new technology to improve garment fit. KEYWORDS: fit, fit session, sizing, apparel
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| Branding to Compete: Applications
to Textiles and Apparel Shanna
M. Bruer, Ph.D. Student ABSTRACT Purpose: The objective of this paper is to briefly review competitive strategies that are relevant to the U.S. textile and apparel industry, focusing specifically on differentiation and branding methods. The various approaches and strategies are then applied through specific examples and illustrations. Methodology: A comprehensive review of secondary data sources, both research and trade combined with primary data sources (via industry interviews) are reviewed. Results are presented as the differentiation typology proposed by Barney (2002). Findings: Numerous competitive strategies can aid textile and apparel firms in preserving and/or improving their current market position. A specific strategy used, branding, aids in the differentiation of product throughout both the textile and apparel industry. Practical Implications: The compilation of literature on differentiation and branding will be useful in further research and studies that focus on textiles and apparel or those that are concerned with product differentiation. Direct applications to both textile and apparel firms are made and a potential structures by which they may develop brands is introduced. Value of Paper: The paper will aid both academia and industry in the development of textile and apparel brands through the introduction of literature on the topic, as well as recommendations on brand strategy and creation. KEYWORDS: Competitive strategies, Differentiation, Branding, Private
label, Textile and apparel industry |
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| Clothing Branding Strategies:
Influence of Brand Personality on Advertising Response
António
Azevedo, Assistant Professor, Minoo Farhangmehr ABSTRACT This paper examines the influence of brand personality on advertising response in fashion clothing branding context. Print ad stimuli of 30 fashion clothing brands with different nationalities and different expected personalities were evaluated by young students (16-25 years old) in terms of Brand Personality Scale of Aaker (1997). The self-congruence implications are discussed. From the brand builder perspective, some benchmarks brands were identified. The results should help the understanding of antecedents and consequences of brand personality processing. KEYWORDS: Brand personality, fashion clothing branding, advertising, self-congruence, youth market.
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| Sustainable Development:
Building a Case for Hemp
Tun Lin, M.A., Graduate Student Catherine Chan-Halbrendt, Ph.D., Professor of the Department of
Natural Resources and Environmental Management, The University
of Hawaii Pauline Sullivan (contact person), Ph.D., Associate Professor ABSTRACT Objectives of this paper are to discuss hemp within the context of sustainable development and examine the economic impact of establishing a hemp sector in rural U.S. locations. This study focuses on the textile industry and examines the interlinking industry impacts from hemp production, fiber processing, and apparel manufacturing. First this paper discusses hemp cultivation in terms of sustainable development, secondly we identify its performance attributes, thirdly we talk about the market for hemp products, fourthly we describe the manufacturing and processing of hemp, and then we describe our input-output model, its analysis of a hemp sector, and research findings. Establishing one hemp apparel manufacturing firm and processing plant appears to be comparable to establishing one cotton apparel manufacturing firm and processing plant in terms of total industry output and employment based on the assumptions of the study. KEYWORDS: Hemp sector, textile industry, economic impact, sustainable development |
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