TABLE OF CONTENTS

Volume 4, Issue 4, Summer 2005
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A wide range of weft knitted products is used for apparel, industrial, and medical purposes. Due to the technological advancement of computerized knitting machinery, it is possible to knit different structures side-by-side, in addition to a sequential manner. This research investigated the occurrence of one type of fabric distortion, arcing, when two different structures were knitted side-by-side, where the abutted areas were composed of the combination of any two different structures. Three weft knit structures were selected for this research (single jersey, 1x1 rib, and the moss stitch). The effects of changes in loop length, yarn type, and fiber type on physical properties of dry-relaxed two-structure fabrics are investigated by an adapted ASTM standard. The results of this examination of arcing in knitted structures will be of interest to designers, academicians, and industry.

KEYWORDS: weft knitting, fabric distortion, arcing

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In this paper we report on the investigation of hairiness control using nozzles at ring frame. Airflow simulation inside the nozzles gives some insight into the mechanism of hairiness reduction. To solve the three-dimensional airflow field inside the nozzles, a CFD (computational fluid dynamics) model has been developed to simulate the airflow pattern using FLUENT 6.1 software. Swirling effect of air, caused by the design of the nozzles seems to be main reason behind hairiness reduction. The 10, 20 and 30 tex Z-twisted ring spun yarns were produced with and without nozzles and tested for hairiness, tensile and evenness properties. The total number of hairs equal to or exceeding 3 mm (i.e. the S3 values) for yarn spun with nozzles is nearly 38-59% less than that of ring spun yarns, while both the yarn types show little difference in evenness and tensile properties. Nozzle angle (angle of auxiliary inlets) plays a significant role in reducing the S3 values as evident from large reduction of hairs with varying the same. The change in yarn channel diameter plays lesser role in reducing the S3 values than the changes in nozzle angle of auxiliary inlets.

KEYWORDS: Airflow, Hairiness, Nozzle angle, NozzleRing, S3 valunes, Simulation, Yarn channel diameter.

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Raw jute fiber has been sulfonated with sodium sulfite in presence of ethylinediamine (EDA) and blended with 40% cotton for production of fine yarn and fabric. Bleached raw jute fiber, bleached sulfonated jute fiber, bleached sulfonated jute-cotton blended fabric and bleached cotton fabric has been dyed with basic dyes (e.g. Crystal Violet, Chrysodine Y, Auramine O and Magenta). The light and wash fastness of dyed sample has been studied. Bleached sulfonated jute fiber and bleached sulfonated jute-cotton blended fabric showed much better wash fastness, less staining and resistance to photo fading than that of bleached raw jute fiber, and its was almost as same as bleached cotton fabric. Magenta dye showed better light and wash fastness than other dyes. On exposure to UV light loss in breaking strength of bleached sulfonated jute-cotton blended fabrics with Magenta is minimum in comparison with other dyes.

KEYWORDS: Sulfonation, jute, jute-cotton blended, color fastness and breaking strength.

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It is necessary to document the properties of the various components when estimating the condition of a textile and when considering the appropriate conservation treatment. So, the results for some selected Coptic Egyptian textile objects, collected from different areas in Egypt have been studied by a variety of methods. Fibres were recognised by using either optical (OM) and scanning electron (SEM) microscopes. High performance liquid chromatography (HPLC), ultraviolet/visible (UV/VIS) and Fourier transform infrared FTIR spectrophotometers, were used for identification of dyes. SEM imaging has afforded an assessment of the degradation from changes in the surface morphology of the Coptic samples. The degradation of the textile samples has been detected by both x-ray diffraction analysis (XRD) and infrared spectroscopy (IR). Wool and linen fibbers from the Egyptian Coptic textiles have been tested. The analytical results suggest the degradation of the tested samples. It is also clear from XRD, that the crystallinity of total cellulose and crystallite length in Coptic linen samples have been obtained by IR shows a change in the chemistry of degraded Coptic textiles.

KEYWORDS: Dyed Egyptian Coptic textiles, Optical Microscope, SEM with EDX, FTIR Spectroscopy, X-ray Diffraction, UV/VIS Spectrophotometer, HPLC

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M.A. Salam
Department of Applied Chemistry & Chemical Technology
University of Rajshahi, Rajshahi-6205, Bangladesh
Phone: 402-617-7855, Email: asalam_69@yahoo.com
Corresponding author: Dr. Abdus Salam, 1200 N 33 Street # B, Linclon, NE 68503

ABSTRACT

Graft copolymerization of methylacrynitrile monomer onto bleached sulfonated jute-cotton blended fabric was carried out in an aqueous medium using potassium permanganate as an initiator under the catalytic influence of sulfuric acid in a nitrogen atmosphere. The effect of concentrations of monomer, permanganate, sulfuric acid, reaction time, and reaction temperature on the percent graft yield was studied. The polymerization reaction was studied with the respect of graft yield and graft efficiency. Optimization of various parameter of grafting viz time, temp., monomer, initiator and sulfuric acid concentration was carried out. As evidence of polymer grafting, some instrumental analyses, such as thermogravimetric analysis, infrared spectroscopy, and X-ray diffractometry were carried out. Grafting improved the thermal stability, protected from photo-oxidative degradation, affected dyeability, and had a positive impact on color fastness.

KEYWORDS: grafting, methylacrylonitrile monomer; sulfonation; jute; cotton; blended fabric

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New product development is one of the riskiest, but most critical strategies in any competitive industry (Cooper, 2001). Many companies have built competitiveness and obtained tremendous profits through new product development. Global competition in the textile and apparel industry has become more intense due, in part, to the changes in regulation of world trade. To compete in the future of textiles and apparel, firms will need to be innovative, while reducing cycle times and cutting costs. New product development methods will contribute or enhance the marketing of innovative products. The purpose of this paper is to review the nature of new product development (NPD) and explore diverse NPD processes identified by previous researchers. This paper will also introduce several examples of new product development process models and strategies of companies and products in the textile and apparel industry. This research will be of interest to academicians and industrial personnel in the textile and apparel field through a review of NPD literature.

KEYWORDS: New product development, innovation, NPD process, textiles and apparel

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The bath textiles segment in the US home textiles market has increased by 2.8% in sales to $3.7billion, 51% of which is towels at a value of $1.88 billion (Corral, 2005). In this study the terry towel is investigated from fiber content through the woven construction to dyeing and finishing. The technologies used in the delivery of a final product to market are explained. New trends and technological developments occurring in the towel market and production processes are explored. In addition to changes in style, new fibers, new yarns, and new fabrications are also a focal point in the world’s towel market (Leizens, 2001).

Terry towels are often very complex with yarns of different types and colors, in combination with various loop pile and flat structures. Towels are subject to changing fashions, and the market is constantly demanding new designs with improved fabric characteristics important to the consumer such as softness and absorbency. In satisfying these requirements, the content and structure of terry towels are critical decisions determining the resulting quality.

This review of the terry characteristics, specifications, production, and performance will be of interest to academicians and industry personnel as a basis for understanding the steps in producing a high quality woven terry fabric.

KEYWORDS: Terry weaving, towel

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Environmental changes, including intensive international competition, unpredictable consumer demand, and market trends of variety and short product life cycles, compel the U.S. textile and apparel industry to focus increasingly on the consumer as a way to meet these challenges. Quick response has established new business strategies, new relationships and new procedures to speed the flow of information and merchandise between retailers and manufacturers of apparel and textiles, all driven by the customer. With such a customer responsive system in place, the industry began expanding into mass customization. Mass customization uses information technology, flexible processes, and organizational structures to deliver a wide range of products and services that meet specific needs of individual customers but on a mass scale. This paper examines Quick Response and mass customization manufacturing strategies used in the textile and apparel industry, examines how existing technologies can support these strategies, and investigates how mass customization can be undertaken through e-commerce.

KEYWORDS: Mass customization, Manufacturing systems, E-commerce, CAD/CAM system

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An Analysis of the US Bottom Weights Market:
Production, Consumption, and Denim

Reece Allen, M.S. Student
Institute of Textile Technology, NCSU College of Textiles
Megan Huffman, M.S. Student
NCSU College of Textiles

ABSTRACT

Growing denim fashion trends coupled with developments in the global market have caused changes in the US apparel marketplace in terms of production and consumption. Therefore, this research explored the current condition of the US market to determine if the United States was a premiere marketplace for production and consumption of bottom weights and denim, in particular. In order to reach a conclusion, market research and statistical analysis was completed in the following areas: production, consumption, imports, exports, global supply chains, and retail channels. This analysis concludes that the US is not the premier production market for bottom weights and denim. However, there is a production opportunity for the United States in terms of niche bottom weights such as premium denim. Although the US is not a premier production market for bottom weights, it is a premier consumption market for bottom weights and denim. Results also identified major trading partners with the United States, such as Mexico and Central American countries. With the increasing imports of bottoms, retailers have placed increased importance on full package sourcing.

KEYWORDS: Denim, bottom weights, production, consumption, textile industry, apparel industry, trade, import, export, cotton, retail channels, global supply chains

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This paper presents a brief profile of the U.S. marketplace with a focus on the Nonwovens industry. The production and consumption statistics and forecasts show the United States as the largest producer as well as consumer of Nonwovens. Latest data (year ending June 05) from OTEXA shows that the US is a net exporter of Nonwovens, exporting almost twice as much as importing. Trends analysis of the Nonwovens industry reveals the increased focus on waste elimination, energy conservation, and recycling. Polypropylene continues to be the most dominant fiber in the Nonwovens industry. Bicomponent and multicomponent fibers are however making inroads in the fiber market.

The global nonwovens production is forecasted to increase by 8.5% annually until 2006. One major problem, threatening to disrupt the global supply chain of the nonwovens industry is surging oil prices, which in turn makes it expensive to produce raw material. The industry may have to invest in R&D to evolve alternate sources for raw materials. The increase in oil prices is escalating the raw material prices and could possibility slow the nonwoven’s growth rate.

KEYWORDS: Nonwovens, Nonwoven, Textile Import Export, Textile Consumption Production, Supply chain, Nonwovens trading partners, Trends in nonwovens industry, US Marketplace, Nonwoven Products

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