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Volume 5, Issue 4, Fall 2007
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Business Models for Competitive Success in the United States Textile Industry

Mark Welch
Department of Agricultural and Applied Economics
Texas Tech University
Lubbock, Texas 79409-2132
E-mail: james.m.welch@ttu.edu

ABSTRACT

Intensifying global competition is threatening the survival of the U.S. textile industry.  We provide insight into the competitive challenges faced by this declining industry and propose strategic responses to this dynamic economic environment.  An ordered logit model provides estimates of how certain strategic decisions impact levels of firm performance. The findings indicate that a composite variable comprising market share and economies of scale positively impacts firm success; but not as significantly as a composite variable of managerial excellence and product differentiation.  This research provides empirical support for the role of agency of managerial choice in determining performance outcomes. 

Keywords: competition, ordered logit, performance, strategy, textiles

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Turkish Towel’s Place in the Global Market

Nazire Deniz Yilmaz, Ph.D. Student
Nancy L. Cassill, Professor
Nancy B. Powell, Associate Professor
College of Textiles
North Carolina State University

ABSTRACT

Purpose: The objective of this paper is to review the competitive advantage of Turkey in the global towel market by using Porter’s Theory of Competitive Advantage of Nations (1990) as a conceptual framework.

Methodology: A comprehensive review of secondary data sources, both research and trade are reviewed.

Keywords: towel, marketing, Turkey, global competitiveness, nation’s competitive advantage, Porter’s Diamond

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Chemical Analysis of Okra Bast Fiber (Abelmoschus esculentus) and Its Physico-chemical Properties

Md. Shamsul Alam and G. M. Arifuzzaman Khan
Department of Applied Chemistry and Chemical Technology,
Islamic University, Kushtia 7003, Bangladesh
Corresponding author: Gazi Md.Arifuzzaman Khan,
Email: gm_arifuzzaman@yahoo.com

ABSTRACT

The chemical composition of okra bast fiber (OBF) has been isolated and isolated values are 67.5 % α-cellulose, 15.4 % hemicellulose, 7.1 % lignin, 3.4 % pectic matter, 3.9 % fatty and waxy matter and 2.7 % aquous extract. So, the main constituents of OBF are α-cellulose, hemicellulose and lignin. The bleached OBF were dyed with Direct Green 27 and Acid Orange 52.The color fastness of OBF on exposure to sunlight have also been studied. It is seen that color fastness of raw fiber is higher than bleached fiber. The degradation of OBF with the action of sunlight was studied by tensile strength. Bleached fiber shown lesser tensile strength loss than raw fiber. Infrared spectra (IR) of OBF were measured for different exposure time under sunlight. The OBF contains higher α-cellulose and has good characteristics like high molecular weight thus it gives high tensile strength, more dye ability and better color fastness properties.

Keywords: OBF; Chemical composition; Oxidative degradation; Viscosity average molecular weight; Tensile strength; Infrared spectroscopy; Colorfastness.

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Evaluation of Raw Silk Produced by Bivoltine Silkworm Bombyx mori L. (Lepidoptera: Bombycidae) Races in Kenya

E. K Nguku1, 2*, V. V. Adolkar1, S. K Raina1, K. G. Mburugu2, O. M. Mugenda2

International Center of Insect Physiology and Ecology, P. O. Box 30772 - 00100, Nairobi, Kenya.
Kenyatta University, P. O. Box 42844 - 00100, Nairobi, Kenya.

*Corresponding author:
Fax: +254 – 20 - 8632001/2
Phone: +254 – 20 – 8632000
Email: enguku@icipe.org

ABSTRACT

Evaluation of raw silk produced in location S1 (laboratory) and S2 (field) was assessed during long rains (LR) and short rains (SR), using selected bivoltine Bombyx mori silkworm strains initially obtained from China and India. They included Chun Lei X Zen Zhu (C X Z), Quifeng X Baiyu (Q X B), Quingsong X Haoyoe (Q X H), 75xin X 7532, Suju X Minghu (S X M) and ICIPE I.

This study aimed to evaluate the quality of raw silk produced by the domesticated silkworm B. mori L in Kenya. Silkworm rearing was done following the procedure of Jolly (1987). Setting of the silk quality control lab was done following specifications from the Chinese Academy of Agricultural Sciences (CAAS) and the International Silk Association, Lee (1999). Raw silk characteristics were evaluated and performance tested to determine its suitability for silk production. Quality tests of each post-harvest production process were carried out to establish the overall quality of the product. Silk winding breaks varied amongst the different strains, with ICIPE I having the least counts while 75xin recorded the most counts 13, 16, 12 and 12 during/in SR S1, SR S2, LR S1 and LR S2 respectively. Elongation percentages differed between the seasons and strains, between 18 and 20%. It was also observed that silkworm strains with high elongation count had the least number of winding breaks. ICIPE I had an average elongation of 20% and an average of 5 winding breaks counts, whereas 75xin had 18% and 13 of the same respectively.

Cleanliness and neatness percentages differed among the strains and were within the acceptable ISA standards but notably ICIPE I cleanliness and neatness percentages were higher than the other silkworm strains during the two seasons, 97 and 96% respectively.

The data obtained identified ICIPE I as a more economical strain to rear for quality production of raw silk and yarn.

Keywords: Silkworm (Bombyx mori), winding breaks, elongation, neatness, cleanliness

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ANTIBACTERIAL ACTIVITY AND UV PROPERTY OF SHIKONIN ON SILK SUBSTRATE

Renuka Dhandapani and Ajoy K. Sarkar
Department of Design and Merchandising
Colorado State University, Fort Collins, CO 80523
E-mail: sarkar@cahs.colostate.edu

ABSTRACT

Shikonin, a naphthoquinone found in the herb Lithospermum erythrorhizon has been used as a red dye for centuries and is reported to possess medicinal properties.  In the current study, shikonin was evaluated as a multi-functional antibacterial and UV protective agent on a silk fabric.  Antibacterial activity against Staphylococcus aureus and Escherichia coli was analyzed qualitatively in terms of zone of inhibition and quantitatively in terms of percentage reduction in bacteria.  Effectiveness of shikonin against ultraviolet radiation was evaluated in terms of Ultraviolet Protection Factor values.  Durability of shikonin to laundering and exposure to light were also studied.  Results showed significant antibacterial activity against the two bacteria.  In addition, the UV protective property of treated silk substrate was considerably enhanced.  Shikonin is also shown to retain its protective properties on laundering and light exposure.  Natural agents such as shikonin are viable additions to the arsenal of multi-functional agents for textile substrates.

Keywords: Shikonin; Naphtoquinone; Antibacterial activity; Staphylococcus aureus; Escherichia coli; UPF

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3D Laser Scanning:  A Model of Multidisciplinary Research

Dr. Terry Lerch, Ph. D.
Department of Engineering & Technology
Engineering & Technology
Central Michigan University
Email:  lerch1t@cmich.edu

Dr. Maureen MacGillivray, Ph. D.
Department of Human Environmental Studies
Central Michigan University
Email:  macgi1ms@cmich.edu

Tanya Domina, MS, MBA
Department of Human Environmental Studies
Central Michigan University
Email: domin1t@cmich.edu

ABSTRACT

New tools and technology are driving research in the 21st century and encouraging multidisciplinary collaboration.  A model of research exploration inspired by the technology of 3D laser scanning is presented in this paper representing disciplines as diverse as Ergonomics, Reverse Engineering, Biomedicine, and Apparel Design.  The paper demonstrates how 3D laser scanning technology can encourage the sharing of problem solving strategies and research methodologies across seemingly unrelated disciplines.  Such inter- and multidisciplinary collaboration offers the potential for creative design exploration that is beyond the scope of any one perspective or discipline, thus expanding the possibility for innovative solutions to today’s complex problems. 

Keywords:  3D laser scanning, technology, model, multidisciplinary, research

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A Descriptive Analysis of North Carolina Textile Complex: 2006

Stacey Frederick, Graduate Student
Nancy Cassill
Blan Godfrey
Trevor Little
North Carolina State University
College of Textiles

ABSTRACT

In Spring of 2006, North Carolina State University’s College of Textiles conducted a research study with funding from the North Carolina Department of Commerce entitled State of the Union of the Textile Industry in North Carolina: Improving Global Market Competitiveness with Identification and Assistance of Core Competencies. This paper focuses on the results of the descriptive analysis of the North Carolina textile complex. Rather than only focus on the traditional manufacturing sectors of the textile industry, the entire textile value chain from raw materials to retail, intangible value-adding activities, auxiliary industries, and the supporting environment were included in the analysis. Even with North Carolina’s historical dominance in textiles, this was the first research study that looked extensively at the entire North Carolina textile complex including all steps in the value chain from fiber to consumer with auxiliary firms.

Outcomes of the study indicate that North Carolina is still recognized as a leader in textile marketing and manufacturing as well as university and industry research and development. Yet with the opening up of global markets, more than ever companies need to look to additional areas of the textile complex as sources of growth, inspiration and collaboration to remain competitive in today’s industry. Fortunately, North Carolina companies do not have to attempt this endeavor alone. North Carolina has a wealth of resources within its borders to support and assist companies making this transition.

Keywords: North Carolina, textile complex, value chain, competitiveness, clusters

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North Carolina’s Textile and Apparel Industry: Recent Survey Results

Valentina De Marchi
Center for Studies on Technologies in Distributed Intelligence Systems (TeDIS)
Venice International University, Venice, Italy
 
demarchi.valentina@gmail.com

Eleonora Di Maria
Department of Economics, University of Padua, Padua, Italy and
Center for Studies on Technologies in Distributed Intelligence Systems (TeDIS)
Venice International University, Venice, Italy
eleonora.dimaria@univiu.org

Stacey Frederick
North Carolina State University College of Textiles
Raleigh, North Carolina
stacey.frederick@gmail.com

ABSTRACT

The article investigates the characteristics of North Carolina textile and apparel companies based on the results of a survey regarding different business management areas. This research investigates the process of internationalization of the sales and production capabilities and analyzes the geography of global suppliers for the North Carolina companies as well as the impacts of internationalization on local activities and employment. The article also highlights firms’ innovation strategies and their attitudes toward information technologies as well as the role of institutions in shaping North Carolina companies’ competitiveness.

Keywords: Textiles, North Carolina, Internationalization, Innovation, Value Chain

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Functional to Fashionable: Knitwear’s Evolution Throughout the Last Century and into the Millennium

Dr J. Power MA BSc ATI CtexT ILTM
Senior Lecturer in Fashion Technology
Manchester Metropolitan University
Manchester

j.power@mmu.ac.uk

ABSTRACT

Since the days of the humble hose, knitwear has expanded into a revolutionary industry that is classified within the high fashion category. This paper presents an investigation into knitwear’s evolution, which can only be described as remarkable from functional items of clothing to fashionable cutting edge styling utilizing the most advanced technology.  The first obvious sign of knitwear changing its role from functional to fashionable, occurred during the latter part of the 19th century and the early part of the 20th century, and since then knitwear has never looked back. The 1920s brought about the birth of the classic twin-set promoted strongly by the English gentry and reinforced by a huge advertising campaign that pushed knitwear irrevocably to the forefront of fashion.  The 30s remained quiet in terms of knitted fashion whilst the knitwear industry struggled to survive against the cheaper foreign imports. By the mid 30s the industry had recovered and had become ever more directional. However, it was not until after the second world war that a strong push was made in terms of design education to promote knitwear as a fashion item in its own right (rather than a mere accessory). Post the Second World War, fabric was in abundance and the classic knitted twin-set once again became high fashion with American film stars promoting the sophisticated image of knit. What a pity by the time we arrived at the forward thinking 50s we had not yet developed the electronics to support the innovation. Pioneers in the field of 3-D development were hindered by the lack of technology during this period and to some extent the technology did not materialize until the birth of the new millennium.

Keywords: Knitwear, Technology, Knitting, Functional Clothing, Fashion Knitwear, Evolution

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Business Models for Competitive Success in the United States Textile Industry: A Tale of International High Fashion Gone Awry

Janine Hiller
Professor of Business Law
Virginia Tech Blacksburg, Virginia 24061
jhiller@vt.edu

Ronnie Cohen, J.D., LL.M.
Professor of Business Law
Christopher Newport University
Newport News, VA 23606
rcohen@cnu.edu

ABSTRACT

French law protects fashion designs by copyright, whereas the United States copyright law offers no similar protection. The policies of these laws are brought into direct conflict when Viewfinder, a Delaware corporation, posts images from a French fashion show on an internet site hosted in the United States. French designers initially sue in France to enforce their rights, demanding that the photos be removed and that fines be imposed. This case chronicles the conflict between French designers and a United States website, highlights competing values, policies, and laws, and asks critical questions about how technology affects the fashion industry and its international environment.

Keywords: Copyright, fashion industry, French design, business models

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Global Dynamics Impacting Yarn Production and Consumption

Suvalee Tangboonritruthai, Ph.D. Student
Nancy L. Cassill, Professor
William Oxenham, Professor/Associate Dean for Academic Programs
North Carolina State University, College of Textiles
Raleigh, NC.

ABSTRACT

This paper will provide the overview of the factors likely to affect the competition in the global yarn market related to yarn production and consumption. This report examines research, trade literature and government statistical reports regarding the yarn production, exports and imports, movement of machinery, preferential trade agreements and yarn consumption. To conclude, the trends in yarn production and consumption in different regions will be identified. Additionally, this study will provide the factors that should be considered for the yarn industry to stay competitive in this globally dynamic yarn market.

Keywords: Yarn Production, Yarn Consumption, Global Dynamics, Competitiveness, Imports and Exports

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A Study on The Quality of Blended Jute Yarn Through Two Different Process Line

A.K.M.Mahabubuzzaman1, Md. Osman Ghani Miazi2, M. Dilder Hossain3,
M.A. Rashid Sarker4 and Md. Ayub Nabi Khan5

1Corresponding author: Senior Scientific Officer, Mechanical Processing   Division, Bangladesh Jute Research Institute (BJRI), Manik mia Avenue, Dhaka-1207. Bangladesh 2Principal Scientific Officer (BJRI),
3Professor, Department of Physics, Jahangirnagar University, Savar, Dhaka,
4Professor, Department of Mechanical Engineering, BUET, Dhaka,
5Professor, Department of Textile Engineering, Primeasia University, Dhaka, Bangladesh.

ABSTRACT

Jute is golden fiber of Bangladesh. It was the main export item of Bangladesh till 1971. At present, jute is the third foreign currency earner next to the garments and manpower sectors. There are about 80 jute mills in the country. They are using conventional jute machinery and are producing conventional jute products. Most of the jute mills have slip draft spinning machine. A large number of the machines are lying at idle condition due to the unavailability of spare parts and few of them are producing yarn thicker than 241 tex. So, it is most essential to produce blended yarn by identifying the specific blending techniques through an extensive study. Therefore, the aim of this investigation was a study to select an appropriate blending technique to produce blended jute yarn in slip draft spinning machine. In jute processing system, feeding technique of jute in breaker card machine blended with other synthetic fibers is an important factor for quality-blended yarn. If blending is occurred more perfectly, the blended yarn will be more regular. To produce quality-blended yarn, two techniques were followed in slip draft spinning frame. One process was through Hopper feeder and Teaser Card blending with jute fiber cutting as staple form and another process was through Breaker Card feed lattice blending with long jute. Among the processes, the produced yarn from blending with long jute through Breaker Card feed lattice was found better of the yarn of 241 tex (7 lbs/spy) than that of blending through Hopper feeder and Teaser Card blending with jute fiber cutting as staple form.

Keywords: Quality, Spinning, Yarn, Tex, Blend and Fiber.

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