Test Method
The subjective garment evaluation study is based on the approach
developed by Norman Hollies at Gillette Institute. This wear trial
approach gathers human responses to test items while participants
follow a schedule of specific activities. A customized test
protocol is developed to include periods of physical activity alternating
with periods of rest in both moderate and mildly warm climatic conditions.
Prior to donning the test ensemble and beginning a test session,
there is a preconditioning period where evaluators, upon arrival,
sit quietly for 15 minutes to come to a relaxed state. An important
part of the activity routine is the exercise period that produces
a sweat-wetted-skin condition.
 
Outlined in the table below is a representative
test protocol of our standard wear trial procedure.
| |
Environmental Conditions |
|
Test Period |
Time |
|
Temperature |
Relative |
|
(rating) |
(minutes) |
Activity |
° C
(° F) |
Humidity (%) |
|
1 |
10 |
rest |
21 (70) |
65 |
|
2 |
15 |
vigorous exercise* |
21 (70) |
65 |
|
3 |
15 |
rest |
29.4 (85) |
85 |
|
4 |
5 |
stretching |
29.4 (85) |
85 |
|
5 |
5 |
rest |
21 (70) |
65 |
*Designed to produce sweat: treadmill walking/ running, group
aerobics with a video
 
The test garments are randomly assigned to evaluators so that different types
are worn in each test session. This practice assures that more independent
ratings are obtained. Additionally, evaluators are instructed not to discuss
the test garments or their ratings. A customized evaluation form is designed
to obtain ratings of comfort and sensory tactile properties for each of the
periods outlined in the protocol. Customarily, the first three items on the
evaluation form require evaluators to rate overall comfort, warm-cool feeling,
and softness of the material. Normally, rating values of these items range
from 1-7 as they appear on the evaluation form with 7 representing the most
comfortable, coolest, and softest garment.
Descriptor terms are selected to be representative of the fabric properties
that are most relevant for the test garment application. The descriptors
are stated negatively because individuals are better able to discern degrees
of
tactile unpleasantness than degrees of tactile pleasantness. Values of 1-5
are assigned in these ratings with 1 = "totally" and 5 = "no
sensation" (do not sense any negative quality). Higher values denote
a more desirable quality.

The
table below contains a list of suggested descriptor terms with
an associated physical property of the garment fabric.
|
Sensory Quality Descriptor |
Associated Physical Property |
|
Snug |
Fit |
|
Heavy |
Weight |
|
Stiff |
Bending |
|
Sticky |
Moisture |
|
Nonabsorbent |
Moisture |
|
Clammy |
Moisture |
|
Damp |
Moisture |
|
Clingy |
Moisture |
|
Prickly |
Surface |
|
Nonstretchy |
Tensile |
|
Scratchy |
Surface |
Evaluators
Typically 30 - 40 participants are used in a study depending
on whether the study is for males or females or a combination of
both. Evaluators are obtained from the North Carolina State University,
T-PACC subject pool which includes persons, primarily students,
who through a screening process are determined to be healthy nonsmoking
individuals between 18 and 35 years of age. Considered first are
experienced evaluators who have participated in previous studies.
All evaluators receive an initial orientation regarding the requirements
of being a wear trial participant.
|